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Routes in The Great Black North

Bete Noir S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Black Toe Arete S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Borg, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Burnt Toast, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Capital Outlay S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Chuana Chavaria S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cold Feet S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Datura S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Delilah S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Don't Eat Stuff on the Sidewalk S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Don't Make Me Shave You S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
It's All Gone S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Laugh the Past Away S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Locutus S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Magus, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Pincher S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Resistance is Futile S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Skank to Crank S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Three Doubles S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Torch & Twang S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Tout Tout de Suite S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tower of Power S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Triage S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Where Paradise Ain't So Crowded (aka "Reamer") S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Brian Mullins, Charles Walters
Page Views: 85 total · 1/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Sep 20, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: This crag may be on Private Property! Details

Description

This is essentially a bolted finger crack. The odd pocket or edge is useful, but 75% of the time one or both hands will be in the crack. The rock is essentially flawless, aside from the obvious splitter, and this route is taller than most 5.11s at this cliff. Unfortunately a gnarly cactus growing out of the crack detracts a bit around the 2nd bolt.

Easy moves lead to the cactus and careful route finding to reach a good ledge. The crux hits around the fourth bolt as the crack peters to a seam.

Location

At the far left end of the GBN, 25 feet right of DESOTS.

Protection

~5 Bolts to 2 BA. The bolts are quite spaced at the start. Take care getting to the 2nd and 3rd bolts.

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