Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Ric Geiman
Page Views: 716 total · 7/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Oct 10, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: This crag may be on Private Property! Details

Description

The "Slice of Bread" is a wafer-thin flake jutting several body-lengths out from the cliffline, suspended precariously in space 50 feet above the trail. A sparse series of thin pockets and sharp edges dot the underside of this flake, providing a barely-free sequence every bit as spectacular as the setting. Among Shelf's hardest lines, Triage presents a stunning departure from the area's typical steep slabs. With a business section that climbs out more than up, this route is easily the most "modern" of Shelf's hard routes, offering thoroughly gymnastic movement, and relatively enormous footholds. Despite these qualities, the route attracts few suitors, perhaps due to its obscure location or the brief window of good conditions. Then again, the deterrant could just be the bewildering crux sequence, known to have stumped several of Shelf's most accomplished climbers.

Stick clip the first bolt, then teeter precariously up the pitiful slab of exfoliating mud to reach the solid dihedral. Cruise the dihedral to a no-hands stance before the business. Traverse out into space on steadily worsening holds to a protruding spike. The baffling crux boulder problem commences; a sustained sequence of small pockets culminating in a desperate huck from an undercling. The core-intensive sequence makes breathing a real challenge, and the burly clip mid-way through may be the route's hardest single "move". From the jagged jug at the last bolt, a final cryptic puzzle guards the anchor.

Location

Climbs the right side of the Slice of Bread, between "Torch & Twang" (L) and "Tower of Power" (R).

Protection

Stick-clip mandatory. 8 bolts to 2BA. A DMM Revolver is helpful for the 4th bolt.

Photos

0 Comments