Where Paradise Ain't So Crowded (aka "Reamer")
Avg: 3 from 1 vote
|Type:||Sport, 50 ft|
|FA:||Prep: Darryl Roth/Dan Durland, FFA: Mark Anderson, 4 Nov. 11|
|Page Views:||1,383 total · 18/month|
|Shared By:||Monomaniac on Nov 7, 2011|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
This crag may be on Private Property! Details
The access situation here is a bit murky. According to "Shelf Road Rock", the crag is likely located on state land that is leased to a local rancher. Climbers should treat this area as though it were private property. Keep a low profile, leave your dogs at home, and keep the noise down.
DescriptionWPASC is the old Darryl Roth/Dan Durland project listed as "Reamer" in Sharp End's "Shelf Road Rock". This unassuming line demands healthy quantities of brains and brawn, beginning with a thuggish roof problem and finishing with the most difficult stretch of vertical wall climbing yet freed at Shelf Road. The rock here is absolutely flawless, despite the understated appearance of the line, and solitude is guaranteed.
A few easy slab moves lead to a good stance at the crook of the looming roof. Utilize a shallow but incut 2-finger pocket to reach the lip, followed by burly moves and an improbable huck to get established on the hanging panel. After a mediocre shake at a horizontal seam, work up to a big undercling and the redpoint crux. Teeter precariously past a pair of side-pulls--using polished bumps for feet--fighting the dull pump to reach a shallow crack. Grope over the subtle bulge through a sea of black lichen-covered slopers and prickly knobs to arrive at a much needed shake on the high slab. Shallow pockets and sharp crimps work up the short headwall to the chains.