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Routes in The Great Black North

Bete Noir S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Black Toe Arete S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Borg, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Burnt Toast, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Capital Outlay S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Chuana Chavaria S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cold Feet S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Datura S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Delilah S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Don't Eat Stuff on the Sidewalk S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Don't Make Me Shave You S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
It's All Gone S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Laugh the Past Away S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Locutus S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Magus, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Pincher S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Resistance is Futile S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Skank to Crank S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Three Doubles S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Torch & Twang S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Tout Tout de Suite S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Tower of Power S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Triage S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Where Paradise Ain't So Crowded (aka "Reamer") S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Prep: Darryl Roth/Dan Durland, FFA: Mark Anderson, 4 Nov. 11
Page Views: 1,440 total · 17/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Nov 7, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: This crag may be on Private Property! Details


WPASC is the old Darryl Roth/Dan Durland project listed as "Reamer" in Sharp End's "Shelf Road Rock". This unassuming line demands healthy quantities of brains and brawn, beginning with a thuggish roof problem and finishing with the most difficult stretch of vertical wall climbing yet freed at Shelf Road. The rock here is absolutely flawless, despite the understated appearance of the line, and solitude is guaranteed.

A few easy slab moves lead to a good stance at the crook of the looming roof. Utilize a shallow but incut 2-finger pocket to reach the lip, followed by burly moves and an improbable huck to get established on the hanging panel. After a mediocre shake at a horizontal seam, work up to a big undercling and the redpoint crux. Teeter precariously past a pair of side-pulls--using polished bumps for feet--fighting the dull pump to reach a shallow crack. Grope over the subtle bulge through a sea of black lichen-covered slopers and prickly knobs to arrive at a much needed shake on the high slab. Shallow pockets and sharp crimps work up the short headwall to the chains.


This is the furthest right route in the Dreamer Pit, beginning immediately right of Dreamer or the second route right of Pincher. Climb over an obvious low roof to a vertical wall, finishing at a set of long black chains. For full value, avoid the arete on the far right.


8 bolts, 2BA.


Morrison, CO
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
Thanks to Darryl Roth & Dan Durland for the vision and hardware for this line. Apparently Roth spied the line and drilled the bolt holes, and Dan sunk in the hardware, eventually one-hanging the route before moving on to other projects. I attempted this in the Fall of 2010, managing only to break a key hold just above the lip of the roof. I came back last month and was able to suss another sequence after literally 2 hours of putzing around at the second bolt. Nov 7, 2011
Nice job, Mark!! Nov 8, 2011
Most excellent send, Mark. Let the climbing world never underestimate the power of a man with a full time job, a wife, and a beautiful new baby. Nov 8, 2011

More About Where Paradise Ain't So Crowded (aka "Reamer")