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Routes in The Great Black North

Bete Noir S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Black Toe Arete S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Borg, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Burnt Toast, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Capital Outlay S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Chuana Chavaria S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cold Feet S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Datura S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Delilah S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Don't Eat Stuff on the Sidewalk S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Don't Make Me Shave You S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
It's All Gone S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Laugh the Past Away S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Locutus S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Magus, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Pincher S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Resistance is Futile S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Skank to Crank S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Three Doubles S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Torch & Twang S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Tout Tout de Suite S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tower of Power S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Triage S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Where Paradise Ain't So Crowded (aka "Reamer") S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Mark Van Horn
Page Views: 57 total, 1/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Oct 10, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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This crag may be on Private Property! Details

Description

Within the context of limestone sport climbing, most will view this as a route to avoid. However, from a different perspective the line warrants a second look. If this pitch were on a desert tower, where sketchy detached blocks are part of the experience, the route would be a highly regarded classic. Unique, athletic movement in a wild position, puts this route among Shelf's most memorable. Unfortunately the spooky rock might leave a memory you'd rather forget.

Stick clip the first bolt, choose your path wisely, and tiptoe up the exfoliating slab. Good pockets and a bomber fingerlock pull over the first bulge onto an excellent panel of clean stone. Continue up sinker pockets to the looming roof. Make sure your belayer is clear of the rock fall zone, then lieback, handjam, and stem over the lip to a well deserved rest. An obvious 2-finger pocket and hard to reach edges breach the intimidating final panel.

Location

Just left of the "Refrigerator", Climbing the opposite side of the Triage "Slice of Bread".

Protection

Stick clip mandatory. 7 bolts to 2 BA.

Photos

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