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Torch & Twang
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British PG13
Avg: 0.5 from 2
votes
Routes in The Great Black North
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Bete Noir S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Black Toe Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Borg, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Bureau of Land Management (BLM) S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Burnt Toast, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Capital Outlay S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Chuana Chavaria S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Cold Feet S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Datura S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Delilah S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Don't Eat Stuff on the Sidewalk S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Don't Make Me Shave You S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hang a Louie S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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It's All Gone S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Laugh the Past Away S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Locutus S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Magus, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Pincher S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Resistance is Futile S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Skank to Crank S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Three Doubles S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Torch & Twang S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Tout Tout de Suite S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Tower of Power S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Triage S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Where Paradise Ain't So Crowded (aka "Reamer") S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 38.65239, -105.22439 |
| FA: | Mark Van Horn |
| Page Views: | 794 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Monomaniac on Oct 10, 2010 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: This crag may be on Private Property!
Details
Per Brandon Schirm: you need a fishing or hunting license to use this crag. It's part of a trust land, so therefore if you don't pay the fee potentially you could receive a fine. On 9-12-20, the cost of a fishing license was $33.42.
Description
Within the context of limestone sport climbing, most will view this as a route to avoid. However, from a different perspective the line warrants a second look. If this pitch were on a desert tower, where sketchy detached blocks are part of the experience, the route would be a highly regarded classic. Unique, athletic movement in a wild position, puts this route among Shelf's most memorable. Unfortunately the spooky rock might leave a memory you'd rather forget.
Stick clip the first bolt, choose your path wisely, and tiptoe up the exfoliating slab. Good pockets and a bomber fingerlock pull over the first bulge onto an excellent panel of clean stone. Continue up sinker pockets to the looming roof. Make sure your belayer is clear of the rock fall zone, then lieback, handjam, and stem over the lip to a well deserved rest. An obvious 2-finger pocket and hard to reach edges breach the intimidating final panel.
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