Avg: 3.9 from 7 votes
|Type:||Sport, 70 ft|
|FA:||Mark Van Horn|
|Page Views:||1,096 total · 10/month|
|Shared By:||Monomaniac on Jun 30, 2009|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
This crag may be on Private Property! Details
The access situation here is a bit murky. According to "Shelf Road Rock", the crag is likely located on state land that is leased to a local rancher. Climbers should treat this area as though it were private property. Keep a low profile, leave your dogs at home, and keep the noise down.
DescriptionThe best route at the cliff, and one of the best 5.12s at Shelf, Bete Noir tackles the intimidating three-foot roof before launching up the amazing pocketed arete above. The line is long, sustained, and the upper arete is steeper and more difficult than it looks. This must-do route would be a 4-star classic at any crag in the country, though at Shelf, it's just another on a long list of world-class routes authored by the prolific Mark Van Horn.
Begin at the right end of the wall below the obvious roof. Climb easily up to a long reach up to the crook of the roof. Take a deep breath, and launch out to the lip with difficulty. Grope up over the hang, work the feet, and set up for a low-percentage crux move to get established over the lip. Milk a good rest, then proceed up the mind-blowing arete with long, technical moves between good, hidden pockets.