Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Mark Van Horn
Page Views: 167 total · 1/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Jun 30, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: This crag may be on Private Property! Details

Description

This pumpy number offers great pocket climbing on beautiful black stone. The route begins easily and gets steadily more difficult with height, making this line a good warm-up option for the more difficult lines in the area. This route is also located in a recessed alcove, so it gets shade a bit earlier that some of the other routes, making it a good morning option on the hotter days.

Begin atop an impressive mound of rodent feces at the base of a white, right-leaning corner. Follow the weakness up and left, then back right, to get established in the shallow open-book just left of the arete. Follow this corner on good holds, eventually moving right onto a white patch of rock with small bits of vegetation. Rest up here before embarking on the crux section. Punch straight up on cool black, pocketed limestone to a difficult, foot-intensive crux just below the anchor.

Location

Located a few hundred feet right of the Dreamer Pit, just left of right-facing, right-leaning dihedral.

Protection

Bolts, 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

Ryan Gajewski
Longmont, Co.
 
Ryan Gajewski   Longmont, Co.
 
Good climbing up top! The first 2 bolts could be moved to better locations, but the climbing is easy. Oct 24, 2018