Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Gill's Buttress

A Cleveland Route TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Acid Rock TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blood Alcohol TR 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Boy Scout T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Fantasy TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gill's Cheek T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Gill's Crack T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gill's Nose TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gills Nose Direct T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Ice TR 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
In Search of the Lost Libido TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Peyote Blues TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Psilocybin TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Slut For Punishment TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Spine, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Twin Cracks T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Weasels Ripped My Flesh TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X
Type: TR, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 580 total, 6/month
Shared By: Mr. Mix on Aug 16, 2009
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


11 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Start on the face 8 feet from right corner. Climb up and slightly right to a side pull directly under the roof. The next 8 feet is difficult and thin climbing heading up and slightly to the right. Easier climbing will take you back to the left finishing at the notch in top of wall. A very technical and sustained climb. This is a really nice but overlooked route with a lot of climbing for a short distance.

Protection

Top Rope

Photos

Jay Knower
Campton, NH
  5.9
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
  5.9
Definitely 5.9. Mike, you were probably off route. Aug 21, 2009
Mr. Mix
Sauk City, WI
 
Mr. Mix   Sauk City, WI
 
Jug Haul? I'm pretty sure we are not doing the same line. I don't hit a jug until the last third of the climb and at 5' 10" I'm not the tallest climber but I thought I sandbagged this at 10b. Paul, when do you traverse to the right? I'm probably off route. Aug 21, 2009
Paul Jones
Madison, WI
5.9
Paul Jones   Madison, WI
5.9
No way 5.10b - 5.9 and easier than Upper D. May feel like 5.10 for shorter people. A fun, slightly overhanging jug haul Aug 19, 2009
Mr. Mix
Sauk City, WI
 
Mr. Mix   Sauk City, WI
 
Sven's guide book lists Fantasy as a 5.9. I am not sure that the line I posted is the line that was originally intended (the guide book is a bit ambiguous). However, the climb posted seemed like the logical line to follow and was quite fun, technical, and sustained. At least to me though the climb felt much harder than 5.9. Aug 16, 2009