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Routes in 06: Gill's Buttress

A Cleveland Route TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Acid Rock TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blood Alcohol TR 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Boy Scout T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Fantasy TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gill's Cheek T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Gill's Crack T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gill's Nose TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gills Nose Direct T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Ice TR 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
In Search of the Lost Libido TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Peyote Blues TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Psilocybin TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Slut For Punishment TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Spine, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Twin Cracks T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Weasels Ripped My Flesh TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X
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Type: TR
FA: John Gill, First Lead: Tommy Deutchler
Page Views: 5,981 total · 29/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Gill climbed it first, but a foothold broke shortly thereafter. Locate the slab between Brinton's and Gill's Buttresses--the route climbs the prominent nose to the right of the slab. A classic Devil's Lake hard route.

At the crux, the original line goes left to a big flat jug and clocks in at 11b. However, the more direct finish (keeping your right hand on or near the corner) certainly requires an 11c effort.


Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
Are you sure Gill did the FA of Gill's Nose. I think it was Roger Weigand, probably with Pete Cleveland. At least I recall him telling me he did.

I've been known to be wrong. Apr 22, 2002
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
According to the Climber and Hiker's Guidebook (1970), Gill did it first, but a foothold broke. Maybe Roger Weigand did the first "foothold-less" ascent. Apr 23, 2002
I thought you might like to see a few "In the Day" photo's. When I took these in '72-'73 I don't think the route had been repeated yet. We used to gather here in the afternoon to give a few tries and the pictures are of Pete Cleveland and Scott Steward discussing the moves and a picture of "Crazy" Tom Deutchler on a TR attempt. May 3, 2002
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
the proud first lead of GILL'S NOSE was by Tommy Deutchler May 12, 2002
Is that a boeline on a coil? Apr 15, 2003
Tom Anderson-Brown
Madison, WI
Tom Anderson-Brown   Madison, WI
If you're talking about Tommy D's tie-in, I think that's called a swami belt. Apr 16, 2003
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  

Correct me if I'm wrong but isn't the 11b "variation" the original line, and the 11c actually a more direct variation of that line? Nov 26, 2006
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
James, I think you are right that the indirect finish is the original line and the direct, harder finish was added later.

Does anyone know if Tommy Deutchler led the direct variation or if he went out left to the jug? Nov 28, 2006
I'm still confused on which line is Gills Nose Lead. When I've top roped it in the past I've always gone straight up, not to the ledge jug on the left, (isn't that "Gills Cheek" or something?) but also I haven't used the arete. First off what's harder? Second, what's the original line? The Arete is the end of Peyote Blues correct?

Krys, Huston, on the lead did you go left or straight? Looks left in the photos. I've found straight up to be a little longer in moves but the way I do that little traverse to the jug left felt really insecure, which of course is fine on TR but on lead I think I prefer staying right and more "secure".

The gear that I got in was 100% though.

Ah, fuck it, I'm splitting hairs, I'm going to go for straight up. Mar 5, 2009
Kris Gorny

  5.11 X
Kris Gorny    
  5.11 X
Hey Nick,
I think going to the jug left is the original line put up by Gill. I believe I did it the way Jason H had (from looking at his pics). Dave Groth showed me the way you are describing. Going on the arete is a harder variation which has a possible ground fall from the crux. I dropped a pack from it a month ago (Jason H was there too) and it stopped just above the ground but there was almost no rope stretch so any fall there wouldn't be pleasant. Mar 10, 2009
Ok, so we will need the patented Vince Evans running be-lay. Mar 12, 2009
RobbHawkinson   Chicago
Sorry to report that a left foot chip about the size of a cassette tape broke off while I climbed this on Tuesday (8/17/17). It was around what I perceived to be the crux move, and I think it makes the move a little harder. I'm curious to hear what people think. Aug 17, 2017
Robb, whereabouts was the foot? Aug 18, 2017
jon jugenheimer
Madison, WI
jon jugenheimer   Madison, WI  
So many left feet on the route, have a pic to show us where something broke? Also, a bit hard to believe on that route of features breaking...that rock is bulleit! Aug 18, 2017
RobbHawkinson   Chicago
Yeah, I was really surprised when it slid off. The foot chip that fell off is where Kris' left foot is in the picture titled: "Devils Lake. Crux of Gill's Nose. Paul Wagener belaying (Thanks, Paul!). Photo: Isaac Therneau. October '08."

Aug 19, 2017
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
I checked it out last night; the foothold breaking does not materially affect the difficulty of the route. Most folks probably won't even notice. Aug 19, 2017
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
Tommy's lead of this was 1975 or 76 -- belayed by Dave Crawford. Apparently he fell at the crux, bounced off Boy Scout slab but the knife blade he had placed held him off the ground and prevented death/disfigurement. Went for it again and sent, but as he was climbing past it he noticed the piton he had just fallen on had fully cracked through where you clip it. Yikes! His story. May 9, 2018

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