Adventure Projects is hiring a web engineer to join us in Boulder, CO
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in 06: Gill's Buttress

A Cleveland Route TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Acid Rock TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blood Alcohol TR 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Boy Scout T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Fantasy TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gill's Cheek T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Gill's Crack T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gill's Nose TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gills Nose Direct T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Ice TR 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
In Search of the Lost Libido TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Peyote Blues TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Psilocybin TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Slut For Punishment TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Spine, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Twin Cracks T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Weasels Ripped My Flesh TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: Old School
Page Views: 241 total · 16/month
Shared By: Tradiban on Aug 19, 2017
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


4 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

The more straight up variation of Gills Nose, this is one of the finest routes on the bluff. Climb the first half of the route and continue straight up instead of left to a jug for Gills Nose regular. Some people use the arete, some don't. The sequence for the top is always seeming to change. Gain the ledge and then a few trivial moves for the top out.

Location

Arete right of Gills Crack.

Protection

One or two finger cams halfway up, yep that's it. There's a debate as to if this route is X or R but I don't think anyone wants to settle that debate with experience. This has been led, twice, maybe more.

Photos

Tradiban
  5.11d
Tradiban  
  5.11d
Got the direct! It was agreed that I probably wouldn't have decked from the top crux with a belayer jump off that log holding the erosion back.
Speaking of erosion a big rock at the base of Gills Nose turned over today from just someone standing on it. Lots of stuff is loose around the base of the east bluff. Watch out! Mar 17, 2009
Remo
Madison, WI
  5.11b/c
Remo   Madison, WI
  5.11b/c
Rhoads was on it today, a great lead! I had him on belay and I don't think he would have decked from the upper crux. Mar 17, 2009
Kris Gorny    
Great job Nick. Congrats. Mar 19, 2009
Tradiban
  5.11d
Tradiban  
  5.11d
Ah, after looking at the photos I think I might have crotched the rope in the event of a fall. Good thing I don't ever have to do it again! Except for the future "retro flash" I guess. Mar 22, 2009
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
Is a retro flash when you get senile and forget your beta so it seems like an onsight? If so that's happened to me many times... Gotta change all those styles on my 8a scorecard, if only I could remember my login name... Congrats Nick, is that a FL of the direct? Mar 23, 2009
Tradiban
  5.11d
Tradiban  
  5.11d
Not sure on the FL. There was a "2nd generation DLFA" there, Scott, and he thought it was.
You are correct on the "retro flash". Mar 23, 2009
Tradiban
  5.11d
Tradiban  
  5.11d
Gill's Nose Direct saw a second lead yesterday from a visiting SLC climber. Andrew Burr was taking pics for Climbing Magazine as it went down. Look forward to an article! Oct 15, 2010
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
Andrew Burr's photos are sick! I can't wait to see them! Oct 15, 2010
Remo
Madison, WI
  5.11b/c
Remo   Madison, WI
  5.11b/c
11.d?! Rhoads, you've gone soft! Aug 20, 2017
Tradiban
  5.11d
Tradiban  
  5.11d
Hasn't the direct always been 11d? The regular route in 11b. I rated 11d when I climbed in back then, maybe you are thinking of TR grades ;) Aug 20, 2017

More About Gills Nose Direct

Printer-Friendly