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Routes in 06: Gill's Buttress

A Cleveland Route TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Acid Rock TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blood Alcohol TR 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Boy Scout T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Fantasy TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gill's Cheek T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Gill's Crack T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gill's Nose TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gills Nose Direct T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Ice TR 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
In Search of the Lost Libido TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Peyote Blues TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Psilocybin TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Slut For Punishment TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Spine, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Twin Cracks T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Weasels Ripped My Flesh TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X
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Type: Trad, TR, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,824 total · 16/month
Shared By: James Schroeder on Jul 30, 2009
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

This short, but appealing crack/chimney, protects well and would make a good introduction to climbing or leading. Start in cleft above tree using both walls to ascend.

Variation 5.6: Start from the Acid Rock start ledge and diligently avoid the right-hand wall while focusing your attention on the crack in the left-hand wall. If it was longer and not an eliminate this variation would be a four star route.

Location

Look for the obvious cleft/chimney just to the right of Acid Rock and above the tree next to the Acid Rock start ledge.

Protection

The Spine takes good gear. A set of Stoppers and small cams works well.

Photos

A set of nuts will sew this up in three pieces. Agreed that it is a good instruction route, infinite pro possibilities and easy anchor set up. Using the right wall takes the fun of the crack out. Sep 7, 2010
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
  5.4
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
  5.4
Led this beast today! Awesome gear! Oct 17, 2010
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
 
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
 
In the 1970 "Climbers and Hikers Guide" this was rated F5, and eliminating the right wall was F6 (the "Acid" start). Whatever the rating, a great little climb! Oct 18, 2010
mike526
schaumburg
mike526   schaumburg
Did This climb yesterday thought it had an interesting start for a 5.4 but very fun. Mar 18, 2012
Matthew Clausen    
 
Awesome warm-up crack with more protection options than you have any need for and sweet moves. Add another 30 feet to it, and there would be lines every weekend to climb it. James Schroeder got me hooked on this route. Apr 22, 2014

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