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Routes in Gill's Buttress

A Cleveland Route TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Acid Rock TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blood Alcohol TR 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Boy Scout T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Fantasy TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gill's Cheek T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Gill's Crack T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gill's Nose TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gills Nose Direct T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Ice TR 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
In Search of the Lost Libido TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Peyote Blues TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Psilocybin TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Slut For Punishment TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Spine, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Twin Cracks T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Weasels Ripped My Flesh TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X
Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: John Gill, onsight solo
Page Views: 2,785 total, 16/month
Shared By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Aug 9, 2003
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description

Gill's Crack is a strenuous route up the steep west face of Gill's Buttress. Start out by climbing about halfway up the slab of Boyscout (rt 57). When you reach the waterstained rock with a faint crack, begin your ascent up the face to your right. Thin moves near the bottom transition into finger jams and laybacks about 20 feet up. The crux, in my opinion, occurs just before the depression in the rock that leads into the hanging dihedral. A fun route!

Protection

Standard rack
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
 
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
 
i second the route description. fun moves on varied rock (don't forget to look out right for some features).

take a purple TCU for the first piece, IMO. May 24, 2010
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
I heard the following story: Gill attempted to solo this route and when he got to the crux, he botched his sequence. He fell, but managed to land, cat-like, on the slab of Boy Scout. Without returning to the ground, he climbed back up and completed the route. Since he stayed on the wall and did not return to the ground, his fist ascent was considered an onsight despite his fall. Nov 28, 2006
The guidebook is wrong (as usual). First ascent was done by Gill, as Steve has mentioned. I did an article on some of his classics at Devil's Lake, including Gill's Crack. I interviewed John for said article. Ascent was solo, in boots, and in 1958 or 1959 (the years he completed the seven routes I had asked about--1958-59 was the answer). Aug 13, 2003
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
sorry ,my other guide says first lead John Gill ,solo 1962. Aug 12, 2003
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
first lead:Jim Ericksonfirst top rope: ??? Aug 12, 2003
Wow, another great example of Devil's Lake sandbags in the old days. I climbed this multiple times 71'-73' and my guide called it F9b and I thought it right on for Devils' Lake. (Not counting having to get my buddy rescued after his knifeblades pulled on his lead attempt) Another "Must Do" Lake classic!! Aug 10, 2003