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Routes in Gill's Buttress

A Cleveland Route TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Acid Rock TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blood Alcohol TR 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Boy Scout T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Fantasy TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gill's Cheek T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Gill's Crack T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gill's Nose TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gills Nose Direct T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Ice TR 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
In Search of the Lost Libido TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Peyote Blues TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Psilocybin TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Slut For Punishment TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Spine, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Twin Cracks T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Weasels Ripped My Flesh TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X
Type: TR, 40 ft
FA: Rich Bechler and Dave Groth,1985 or 86. First Lead: Jason Huston, 2006
Page Views: 2,053 total, 11/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Oct 18, 2002
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Slightly more difficult than Acid Rock, Peyote Blues climbs the right side of the Gill's Nose arete. Starting on the huge block (as per Acid rock), climb left to the corner, slap the corner, and continue to the top. Unusual for a 5.12 at the Lake, Peyote has no crimps on it. Expect extreme body tension moves and large, generally bad holds.

Protection

Toprope

Photos

Alex Andrews  
 
As I remember when Rich Bechler did the FA of the route the left corner was off and it was 5.13, then using the left corner become the standard route, I think Eric Z, did it bare foot, he was getting bored climbing in shoes, doing a lot of the 5.12's and at least one 13 bare foot, Aug 9, 2007
jason, you're such a featherbagger.

steve Jan 31, 2007
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
Jason, Another impressive send.What in the hell did ya get fer gear?or was there any? Congrats on a fine lead. Steve S. PEACE AND FUK-NES Jan 29, 2007
since jason is too modest to put it in himself: first known lead, Jason Huston, late december 2006/early january 2007.

how did he describe it??? "Frightening" Jan 23, 2007
Another good way to approach this route is to traverse in from Gill's Nose with your hands about the level of Peter's feet in the photo. Personally, I never had the guns left to finish the route after the Nose start. ABQ. Apr 23, 2003
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
first top-roped by Rich Bechler and Dave Groth ,1985 or 86 Nov 6, 2002