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Routes in Gill's Buttress

A Cleveland Route TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Acid Rock TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blood Alcohol TR 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Boy Scout T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Fantasy TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gill's Cheek T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Gill's Crack T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gill's Nose TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gills Nose Direct T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Ice TR 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
In Search of the Lost Libido TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Peyote Blues TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Psilocybin TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Slut For Punishment TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Spine, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Twin Cracks T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Weasels Ripped My Flesh TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X
Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: Chest Rockwell
Page Views: 2,991 total · 16/month
Shared By: Chest Rockwell on May 13, 2002 with updates
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route

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This route is best is best when simul-climbed or soloed, unless you are a boy scout. It is the big chimney and slab in the corner to the right of Brinton's Crack and left of Gill's Nose.

Good first simul-climb, watch for pigeons, and be sure to kiwi-coil rope.


Standard simul-climbing rack.
Seth Jones
New Lenox, IL
Seth Jones   New Lenox, IL
+1 on this being a good route to practice multipitch. Nov 2, 2016
Cedar Rapis
Adam.IA.climber   Cedar Rapis
Did in 2 pitches! Great way to take a lower level climb and add some excitment! Highly recommended! Jul 23, 2011
Rich Ulanski  
Great starter/warmup/date climb. Asked my wife to marry me while I was on belay and she was standing on the shelf just below the finish, about 40ft. above. I had her ring in her chalk bag. She didn't like chalk until that moment. Mar 21, 2009
Jesse Bond  
This is a super route for someone learning to place gear on lead. It protects really well from comfortable stances so you can really try out a lot of options. Every time I stopped to place a piece on this, I was able to put in something that I felt secure about.

Lots of fun and a great climb to get on if you're a beginning leader.

Apr 5, 2005
I think the difficulty/interest of this route can be increased by changing the slab portion. Try avoiding either edge of the slab, and it gets a lot more interesting, IMHO. Oct 16, 2004
Just a side comment. Flame me if you want, but unless you're either a current soloist, an experienced lead climber and/or have already led this route and feel very secure, be sure of your skills before soloing it. I'm a consistent 5.9 (top rope)climber at Devil's Lake, and put a top rope on this with my girlfriend on our first weekend out this year. Yes, sure, it was easy, but I flopped around a little at one spot on the slab and felt a tinge of vertigo stemming up the chimney. I've climbed 5.6 face routes at the park that felt more secure. First day out jitters, but still, don't try to be a hero here if you're not one already. May 20, 2004
No, no, no. Not offended at all, Chest. Just a really, really safe person. Ah! Who am I kidding? I'm a chicking sh**! No. If someone feels very confident in their skills, by all means, climb it unroped. Me, like I said. Rather be a coward for ten minutes than dead for the rest of my life. No offense taken. I hope I didn't offend you.

Steve May 15, 2002
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
Chest, I agree with you on the whole "move fast in an alpine environment" idea, but I would think that simulclimbing Boy Scout would be more risky than free soloing. I can picture a pretty ugly simulclimbing fall, a fall in which both climbers get pretty messed up. If you are climbing solo, only one climber is at risk, and he does not rely on the a partner's ability to climb the route. What if, for example, the second falls while the first climber is in the chimney. The first climber could effectively ground out on top of the slab while the lower climber could crater below the slab. Not to be morose, but it could happen. If the first climber were climbing alone, he would not have this problem.

Of course, it goes without saying (as I say it right now) that one should only undertake an ascent such as this (via either method) of one feels absolutely comfortable and sure of onesself. May 15, 2002
Chest Rockwell
Lodi, WI
Chest Rockwell   Lodi, WI
Sorry your offended by my style suggestions. However I do believe that I offered the suggestion of simul climbing, which seems to offer a reasonable amount of protection for two adept and experienced climbers. Although it is questionable whether or not two adept and experienced climbers would bother with a route like Boy Scout, that is unless of course it was a quick warm-up solo, or end of day solo. This route is pretty much a cake walk and the style suggestions (like most things I say) were tongue in cheek.

On another level though you dis simul-climbing and soloing for their lack of safety I would argue that at times they are the safest and only sensible alternative. These situations usually occur in alpine situations where speed can be more paramount than the protection of the rope. While I realize that the Lake presents no real alpine challenges (except perhaps Turk's Head Ridge in winter) climbers who aspire to the alpine arena should have knowledge of these skills along with the high level of self-confidence needed to perform them. My suggestions (and preferred style on routes _5.5) to solo or simul-climb are not reckless when taken in this light, in fact to me they seem reasonable. Would you not agree??

Chest May 15, 2002
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
Doing Boy Scout unroped is called the "Chest Scout" variation. May 15, 2002
Well, Chest. You do it that way. I don't take (what I feel is) foolish chances. Overconfidence has made many mistakes in the course of my life. I prefer to be there to climb another day. It may only be a 5.3, but that is no reason to prove anything. You go ahead and do it unroped. You're the brave one. Me, I'd rather be a coward for ten minutes than dead forever! I think I will stick to the rope!

Steve May 15, 2002
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
The man, the legend, Chest Rockwell. May 13, 2002
Chest Rockwell
Lodi, WI
Chest Rockwell   Lodi, WI
Well actually I believe my best time was 27 seconds, but that was not in the car-to-car style that you pioneered and continue to promote. However I believe a good car to car time for Boy Scout or Chest Scout as I like to call it would be about 15 minutes. May 13, 2002
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
Chest, What is the speed record for this climb? Word on the street is that you did it in like 4 seconds. Is it true Chest? May 13, 2002
Chest Rockwell
Lodi, WI
Chest Rockwell   Lodi, WI
Dude you M-U-S-T do this route if you are a D.L. climber. Simul-climbing and soloing are the only recomended ways to climb. May 13, 2002

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