Hassig's Libido
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
| Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
| GPS: | 43.80406, -71.84251 |
| FA: | Chris hassig, fall of 1981 |
| Page Views: | 1,213 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Lee Hansche on Aug 4, 2009 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
Description
Took me a while just to figure out where this route was due to the copious amount of lichen growing on the upper half. I have since played on it on toprope and it seems like there are two options.
Both options start by climbing a pretty corner to an OK rest below the crux roof. What i thought was the truer line went straight up over the roof with good protection though there is a big tree under you that you wouldn't want to hit. This line seems to be about right as far as the grade is concerned.
The line as it is described in the guide book climbs out right under the roof and out a "crack" the crack is shallow and will take gear well but wouldn't be too crack like climbing wise, I climbed this section more as a face as well. The Pin is way out right so much so that id be sketched to try to use it when I've got a good crack for gear. The only advantage to the original (if I'm correct) line is that you don't climb above the tree. The grade seems the same...
The route needs a really good cleaning and I plan to do that soon.



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