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Routes in Triple Corners Left

Amore Eel S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Birch Corner T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Birch Fist T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Blues for Mowgli S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Drilldo S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hassig's Libido T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ladybug Death Orgy T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Loose and Baggy S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Man With a Hueco in His Tights S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Promises S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
That's a Moray T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Triple Delights S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Triple Fisting T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Walking the Devil T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Way off route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c X
Where am I ? S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: Lee Hansche
Page Views: 1,844 total, 18/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Jul 5, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Mark Sprague told me about this crack a while back after he put in an anchor above it and tried it a little on TR. Anyway the beta I had in mind took a good bit of cleaning of lichen and loose rocks. Today I went out to give it my first try. I came very close to an onsight on my first go, falling on the #6 cam in the crux. I cleaned the route and sent on my second go.

Basically climb the low off-width roof how ever you can manage (I went upside down but who knows what you might come up with) and continue up the chimney above to the anchor.

video link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uJIHTjUnZDM

Im not sure on a letter grade but the "boulder problem" crux i felt was v4 or harder so it seemed like 5.12 made sense. I'd love other peoples opinions on the grade so climb it.

Thanks a bunch for telling me about it Mark.

Location

On the far left end of triple corners to the right of the fixed rope gully that goes toward the hinterlands.

Protection

I used medium cams a #6 camalot.
Alec Woolley
Nottingham, NH
  5.12a
Alec Woolley   Nottingham, NH
  5.12a
Fantastic climb! Note on the number 6 cam, if you try to use it too early, that's when the placement is iffy. If it looks bad, another body move or two should open a bomber placement. Jun 28, 2017
Eli
Lives in a truck
Eli   Lives in a truck
This thing kicked my ass today! Hoping to go back for the send. Aug 2, 2015
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
really glad you got on it! I think it will be a little different for everyone... let me know what ends up working for you :) Jul 26, 2014
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
Got on this yesterday. Pretty hard, messed around with a couple sequences and wasn't able to send. Think I have some good beta worked out and look forward to a rematch. Great send lee. Jul 26, 2014
Heims
homer, AK
 
Heims   homer, AK
 
another year, a new cam...shes gonna go this time!!:) Sep 9, 2013
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
glad you like it!
im surprised the cam didnt stay, my #6 was bomber... glad it sounds like you are ok...
it was indeed nice to run in to you and i look forward to seeing you post about sending this thing :) Oct 31, 2012
Heims
homer, AK
 
Heims   homer, AK
 
Sooo...way different beta on my part I went left side in fist jam in the flake invert of my left hand then flail a lot. Cam popped out I feel I need a 7 lol almost sent man...comin back for another go soon. But I got the start beta nailed now....great route man! Good meetin ya the other day as well! Oct 30, 2012
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
haha yeah not a bad name... naming them is half the fun... the name i gave it had like 3 meanings... it came to me while looking at a picture of my wife walking an evil puppy we referred to as the devil, also i was planning on walking the #6 cam which is a devil of a size, and in the end i walked the route compared to what a devil i thought it would be... so there is the story... anyone who likes OW roofs will like this route... Dec 2, 2009
twellman
Cambridge
twellman   Cambridge
Another cool name for this would have been...

Off width your head!

Haha. I saw this in the new guidebook. Nice going, Lee. Dec 2, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
thanks much sir!!! Jul 9, 2009
Kevin Macartney
Laramie, WY
Kevin Macartney   Laramie, WY
Lee, I liked the intro you gave to the route with the clip of you climbing inbetween. Congrats on the send! Jul 9, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Just posted a video of the climb...
youtube.com/watch?v=uJIHTjU… Jul 7, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Thanks Mark... i was not able to remove the main chock stone/flake in there which proved to be very helpful for my beta and i decided it was even solid enough to protect with... i did remove a bunch of rock and lichen which changed things a litle... Thanks again for getting me psyched on it!!! Jul 6, 2009
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Nice going, Lee! I can't help much with the grade. I only tried it once, on TR, and before the loose flakes inside were cleaned out. I wouldn't doubt the grade you propose. I used the flakes some and it still felt pretty hard and I ended up dropping out of the slot. Without the flakes to push off, I would imagine it would be much more strenuous and require interesting technique. I too ended up inverted part of the time.

It is cool that several hard, worthy trad lines have gone in at Rumney recently Jul 6, 2009