Type: Sport, 50 ft (15 m)
FA: Lee Hansche 1/28/13
Page Views: 1,159 total · 11/month
Shared By: Lee Hansche on Jan 28, 2013
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Listed as an open project in the latest guide book. There has been a single bolt on the bulge for years. Every time I saw it I just felt like it needed to be finished. I finally got around to adding a few more bolts and climbing the surprisingly enjoyable route.

Climb up on to the slab clipping the first bolt then scampering up another little bit to a stance where it steepens to vertical. Clip the high 2nd bolt (I might add one more at some point so this isn't run out... what do you think?). Climb around to the right and back left to gain a solid knee bar. To this point it's about 5.9ish. Powerful moves tackle the steep bulge above. Long arms and a few tricks will help make this section reasonable.
The crux for me is dyno move at the lip of the bulge. spring from a couple of crimps and bad feet out right to your choice of a few good holds. You can make the last clip from here easily. Just when you think it is over you need to wrestle a few slopers to gain the chains. Might be other options up here, time will tell.

I found the moves to be really fun. My only comment on that is that it will favor tall climbers in a couple of spots.

Location

Just left of the obvious overhanging arete of Blues for Mogli. Look for a slab leading to a very steep bulge.

Protection

6 bolts to Anchor.

If your Belayer isn't anchored you might want to back clean the first bolt to avoid having them get pulled in to a sharp edge.

Photos