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Routes in Triple Corners Left

Amore Eel S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Birch Corner T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Birch Fist T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Blues for Mowgli S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Drilldo S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hassig's Libido T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ladybug Death Orgy T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Loose and Baggy S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Man With a Hueco in His Tights S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Promises S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
That's a Moray T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Triple Delights S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Triple Fisting T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Walking the Devil T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Way off route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c X
Where am I ? S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Mark Sprague
Page Views: 801 total, 8/month
Shared By: lee hansche on May 19, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Start up lichen covered rock on easy moves. 15 feet up you get some fun moderate face climbing. Move right to the arete and make delicate moves up the arete and mantel to the right to a stance. Traverse left very carefully then make a fun mantel on to the top and jog the last 15 feet to the to the anchor.

Mark described this route as 5.10ish. If you are looking for that grade it seemed like you could stay left of the arete and do harder moves directly to the final mantel.

Either way you do it you wont have any trouble getting on this one on a busy day. The moves felt a bit Junco like which translates to fun.

Location

As you hike up from triple Corners toward the Hinterlands you go up a gully with a fixed rope in it. when standing at the base of the gully this route is to your right.

Protection

6 bolts to anchor.

Photos

Ryan Loiselle
Pepperell, MA
  5.10a
Ryan Loiselle   Pepperell, MA
  5.10a
Got on this route yesterday and really enjoyed the moves between the third and sixth bolts. I took the route more to the left of the arĂȘte and found there to be a really cool little three finger vertical pocket to pull on and up to the ~45 degree ledge. This was the hardest, coolest move on the route for me. Oct 31, 2016
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.10a
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.10a
I went back to this route today. Lee's beta in the route description is right on the money. The route goes right, climbing over the arete, and then back left again. The last bolt on the face is perfectly placed for the mantel move. A good little climb. Aug 9, 2016
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
I second the beta Mark is attempting to remember ;) Mar 31, 2016
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Nick, I definitely went to the right, maybe even around the arete and remember it feeling slightly spicey. Being tall should help. It has been a long time so my recollection is hazy. I seem to remember reaching out left to clip not up and being above the preceding bolt some. I never really cleaned the bottom but the upper part was scrubbed when I put the route up. Mar 28, 2016
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.10a
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.10a
I was on this route today. The picture that Lee posted above does not particularly look like the route because it's so foreshortened. There's an arete to the right, but, given the bolt placements, I think the route must stay on the face. If you go over to the right and climb over the arete to other side, there are no bolts, and you'd have to do a long stretch back to the left in order to clip the last bolt at the top of the face.

But, if you stay on the slab the whole way, go straight up, and just use the arete for your right hand, it is way harder than 5.10a. I look forward to going back to finish this one. Mar 27, 2016
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
  5.9
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
  5.9
Walking up the hill, I glanced over and noticed this face which had less lichen than its surroundings. Some of the larger edges midway up were wet but I was able to traverse right to the arete on decent feet, clip, and mantle around the corner. I enjoyed finding the decent holds allowing me to shift back left around the upper part of the arete. Walking my feet up the last slanting ledge, the final mantle didn't seem bad at all... with a jugs awaiting above. The way I climbed this route felt harder than 5.8 but not really 5.10. I could see it being a little easier for the tall. :)

I enjoyed this climb. I'm glad I stopped. Mar 14, 2012
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
good insights... this might be one that is easier for tall folk... though i do tend to climb like a shorty :) Aug 3, 2010
S. Neoh
5.10a
S. Neoh  
5.10a
Lee, we happened to do the route as you have described; breaking right to the arete just below the 4th bolt. Clipping the 4th bolt was the
crux for me (fighting the tendency to barn door), before I went over to the arete.
I am 2 inches shorter than Mark so I think it would be difficult for me to "reach back" to clip the 4th bolt after I am around the arete on the right side. Perhaps this is the difference for you since you are tall and lanky. The last mantle onto the slab is 5.9 and the moves around the 4th clip is harder than the mantle. Aug 3, 2010
S. Neoh
5.10a
S. Neoh  
5.10a
IMHO, 10a grade is right. Reminds me of Tool Time, but easier.
Bring a wire brush and work gloves; the slab below the second bolt can use a good scrubbing. I wish I had the equipment with me today.
1.5 stars. Aug 1, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
i climbed it again today and since it was less than 30 degrees (couldnt feel my hands) it felt more like the 5.10 grade found in the guide book, haha... id say my proposed 5.8 grade is a little harsh and 5.10a might be generous but i put the guidebook grade up here so not to confuse people...

I took a pretty good ride when a seemingly solid foot hold popped off and i slid 10 feet or more down the slab stopping just above the scary flake below... ahh the joys of climbing obscure routes, haha... Mar 4, 2010
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
 
Mike Thompson   Manchester NH
 
i thought the last few moves were spicey but i could just be a wuss lol :) May 19, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
yeah, i know you said it was harder but im pretty sure its the same line... clipping was fine the way i did it though at one point you have a bolt at your feet (a scary thing for many spoiled climbers, haha) but i really think it works fine either way... i had 3 poeple climb it that way and 2 of us thought it was good... really similar in difficulty and style to junco... May 19, 2009
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Hmm, I'm not recognizing the route from the picture at all. Were the bolts nice fat glue-ins? The description sounds right though. If it is the same route, you must have found an easier way. I and the other 2 people who I know climbed it found it to be quite a bit harder than 5.8 and I wouldn't have contrived it unless I was blind as a bat that day, which is possible I suppose, lol. How was it clipping the bolts the way you went? May 19, 2009