Type: Sport, 45 ft (14 m)
FA: Dr. Steve Johnson - the bird guy
Page Views: 6,312 total · 39/month
Shared By: Ladd Raine on Apr 14, 2007 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Classic at the grade.

Stick clip first bolt, which until it is replaced, is likely a spinner, making that a challenge.

Start low on a very textured large hold and get high feet, extend up and left to gain another rail-ish type hold that is interesting, get high feet and either go up and left to catch the flake in an undercling or go out right to catch the arete and couple of heucos and some more interesting moves to eventually gain the flake 4 feet above the bottom undercling. Continue up the flake (it is solid to pull on, just not for gear)to gain the jugs to clip the anchors.

NOTE COMMENT:"The undercling flake mentioned in the beta description is currently "X"ed and will be breaking off within weeks if not days. I've climbed this route a dozen plus times over the years and am super familiar with how much it previously flexed, but it's at the point where it needs to be reinforced or [it's] coming off "

Harder for shorter climbers.
A great climb for the 5.11- climber to work out/tick.
A great climb to burn out on for the 5.11-5.12 climber.

Be careful cleaning on the lower that you don't pendulum into the rock behind you. It may be better to have someone clean while seconding.

youtube.com/watch?v=zTmY_5u…;feature=youtu.be

Location

At the lowest point of the triple corners V.

Protection

4 bolts to chains. Watch out for hitting the ledge to your left if you botch the 2nd clip.

Photos