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Routes in Triple Corners Left

Amore Eel S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Birch Corner T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Birch Fist T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Blues for Mowgli S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Drilldo S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hassig's Libido T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ladybug Death Orgy T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Loose and Baggy S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Man With a Hueco in His Tights S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Promises S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
That's a Moray T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Triple Delights S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Triple Fisting T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Walking the Devil T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Way off route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c X
Where am I ? S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Dr. Steve Johnson - the bird guy
Page Views: 5,010 total, 39/month
Shared By: Ladd on Apr 14, 2007 with updates
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Classic at the grade.

Stick clip first bolt, which until it is replaced, is likely a spinner, making that a challenge.

Start low on a very textured large hold and get high feet, extend up and left to gain another rail-ish type hold that is interesting, get high feet and either go up and left to catch the flake in an undercling or go out right to catch the arete and couple of heucos and some more interesting moves to eventually gain the flake 4 feet above the bottom undercling. Continue up the flake (it is solid to pull on, just not for gear)to gain the jugs to clip the anchors.

Harder for shorter climbers.
A great climb for the 5.11- climber to work out/tick.
A great climb to burn out on for the 5.11-5.12 climber.

Be careful cleaning on the lower that you don't pendulum into the rock behind you. It may be better to have someone clean while seconding.

Location

At the lowest point of the triple corners V.

Protection

4 bolts to chains. Watch out for hitting the ledge to your left if you botch the 2nd clip.
S. Neoh
  5.10d
S. Neoh  
  5.10d
Almost no change, Lee. The block that fell off came from about 4 feet below the 1st bolt. The start (from the ground, people, not the block) might be a bit harder but the overall difficulty of the route is unchanged. We all commented how much slicker the footholds felt today so it felt .11a to me today. :) Oct 11, 2015
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
knew that was coming... I look forward to seeing how it climbs now... Sep 24, 2015
teresamatrix
Los Angeles, CA
teresamatrix   Los Angeles, CA
A basketball size chunk of this climb has fallen off of this climb somewhere near the bottom. It must have happened sometime in the last three weeks. The opening moves are now harder, but I'm not sure to what degree... Sep 21, 2015
Eli
Lives in a truck
  5.11-
Eli   Lives in a truck
  5.11-
All bolts are spinners. Lots of flexing holds on this route. Still pretty fun. Aug 2, 2015
George Grzyb  
 
A few spinning bolt hangers. Unable to fix as it appears my 9/16 wrench is not compatible with most bolts at Rumney. Oct 21, 2014
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.10d
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.10d
Wicked fun short climb, but no way is it a 5.11 (at least not for tall people). I thought cleaning the route was harder (and definitely more strenuous) than climbing it. Too bad the big flake isn't two or three times as long. If it were, this route would be a New Hampshire classic. Aug 13, 2014
Alissa Doherty
Boston, MA
Alissa Doherty   Boston, MA
I believe the guidebook makes note, but this climbs a bit differently for a short folks. I found it required alternate beta in two places before gaining the crack/flake. It's a nice (but tough) puzzle for the vertically challenged. Jun 16, 2014
The Fat Kid  
 
Is there a reason why the clipping jug for the fourth bolt has a big "X" on it? My partner and I agreed that it felt really solid as of 11/17/13.

We did this in light rain and the route was dry below the "X'd" jug, but clipping the chains was dicey as the top was soaking wet and required an impromptu arm bar! Nov 18, 2013
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
"no hand jams necessary" makes it sound like it's something to avoid when you can :P
thats like saying, didnt need the kneebars or something... i will climb 10' off route to find a hand jam or a kneebar even if its a warm up haha...
all jokes aside, Nice Job!!!!! Apr 29, 2013
Eric Heiden
Derry, NH
 
Eric Heiden   Derry, NH
 
Sent this in 2 tries this weekend - 1 follow, 1 lead. No hand-jamming necessary for me. Very fun climbing, whatever the grade is. Apr 29, 2013
Lanky
Tired
  5.11a
Lanky   Tired
  5.11a
This would be a fantastic short route, but the first big flake creaked when I pulled on it, which I found thoroughly disconcerting. Definitely harder than Clusterphobia in my opinion, but not two letter grades. Aug 13, 2012
Matt Glue
Boulder, CO
Matt Glue   Boulder, CO
Awesome route! The new guidebook calls it 11a. I would agree, especially if you know how to handjam. Aug 9, 2011
Jake D.
Northeast
Jake D.   Northeast
Eric, Now that I have this route dialed the stick clipping IS the crux ;). if you stand up on the block and clip from there it isn't too bad. ask your son, he'll teach you how to stick clip .11+ Sep 15, 2010
For us who are challenged by stick clipping - especially when not using a stick but leaning out over the "abyss" - it would be nice to fix the damn spinning hanger. Aug 2, 2010
S. Neoh
  5.10d
S. Neoh  
  5.10d
Start on the ground and not the raised block; it adds two interesting moves to the climb and raises the overall quality.
I second Mark's grade suggestion; just a tiny bit harder than Clusterphobia. Aug 1, 2010
M Sprague
New England
5.10d
M Sprague   New England  
5.10d
10d/11a. It feels to me about the same difficuly as Student Loan and Clusterphobia May 11, 2010
twellman
Cambridge
 
twellman   Cambridge
 
I think this route might actually feel more like 10d, especially when you know the moves... there is no way in hell it is as hard as Flyin Hawaiin. Stick clipping the second bolt, which is not a bad idea with that rock below you, makes it considerably easier. May 10, 2010
rdlennon
New Hampshire
  5.10d
rdlennon   New Hampshire
  5.10d
The presence of the block makes this otherwise excellent route a bit contrived. The entire crux basically amounts to a sit start to the real route, since you can stem or step onto the block at any point. The whole thing is fun, but it's weird having to call a part of it 'off'. Aug 29, 2009
twellman
Cambridge
 
twellman   Cambridge
 
An awesome short route! Gets easier as you go, so don't stop cranking! The start is very powerful and bouldery, with a few options. The clips arent too hard if you find some good heel hooks and or knee bars. Jul 19, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Here is a video link of Mike Thompson warming up on Loose and Baggy 5.8+ then flashing Man with the Hueco in His tights 5.11b...
youtube.com/watch?v=4XxVEpi… Jun 3, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
its like 4-5 bolts... Dec 15, 2008
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
Just to get a better idea about this route how many bolts are there? Dec 15, 2008
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
i found this route to be way easier after learning to handjam... i hate laybacks with a passion... Aug 21, 2007
BrianWinslow
Concord, NH
 
BrianWinslow   Concord, NH
 
This route is classic, as Ladd said there are options at the bottom, and I choose to leave my hands out of the two obvious Heuco's, however they make great foot holds. At the top it is possible and fun to knee bar before clipping the anchors. Aug 21, 2007