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Man With a Hueco in His Tights
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2.8 from 129
votes
Routes in Triple Corners Left
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Amore Eel S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Birch Corner T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Birch Fist T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Blues for Mowgli S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Drilldo S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Hassig's Libido T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Ladybug Death Orgy T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Loose and Baggy S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Man With a Hueco in His Tights S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Promises S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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That's a Moray T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Triple Delights S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Triple Fisting T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Walking the Devil T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Way off route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c X |
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Where am I ? S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Sport, 45 ft |
| FA: | Dr. Steve Johnson - the bird guy |
| Page Views: | 5,442 total · 39/month |
| Shared By: | Ladd on Apr 14, 2007 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall |
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Description
Classic at the grade.
Stick clip first bolt, which until it is replaced, is likely a spinner, making that a challenge.
Start low on a very textured large hold and get high feet, extend up and left to gain another rail-ish type hold that is interesting, get high feet and either go up and left to catch the flake in an undercling or go out right to catch the arete and couple of heucos and some more interesting moves to eventually gain the flake 4 feet above the bottom undercling. Continue up the flake (it is solid to pull on, just not for gear)to gain the jugs to clip the anchors.
Harder for shorter climbers.
A great climb for the 5.11- climber to work out/tick.
A great climb to burn out on for the 5.11-5.12 climber.
Be careful cleaning on the lower that you don't pendulum into the rock behind you. It may be better to have someone clean while seconding.
youtube.com/watch?v=zTmY_5u…
Stick clip first bolt, which until it is replaced, is likely a spinner, making that a challenge.
Start low on a very textured large hold and get high feet, extend up and left to gain another rail-ish type hold that is interesting, get high feet and either go up and left to catch the flake in an undercling or go out right to catch the arete and couple of heucos and some more interesting moves to eventually gain the flake 4 feet above the bottom undercling. Continue up the flake (it is solid to pull on, just not for gear)to gain the jugs to clip the anchors.
Harder for shorter climbers.
A great climb for the 5.11- climber to work out/tick.
A great climb to burn out on for the 5.11-5.12 climber.
Be careful cleaning on the lower that you don't pendulum into the rock behind you. It may be better to have someone clean while seconding.
youtube.com/watch?v=zTmY_5u…
![[[105946055]] climbs up the large flake left of the two heucos.](https://cdn-files.apstatic.com/climb/106415183_smallMed_1494106682.jpg)
![The bottom half of [[105946055]].](https://cdn-files.apstatic.com/climb/106415184_smallMed_1494106683.jpg)
Concord, NH
goffstown, nh
Sandwich, NH
goffstown, nh
goffstown, nh
youtube.com/watch?v=4XxVEpi… Jun 3, 2009
Cambridge
New Hampshire
Cambridge
New England
I second Mark's grade suggestion; just a tiny bit harder than Clusterphobia. Aug 1, 2010
Northeast
Boulder, CO
Tired
Derry, NH
goffstown, nh
thats like saying, didnt need the kneebars or something... i will climb 10' off route to find a hand jam or a kneebar even if its a warm up haha...
all jokes aside, Nice Job!!!!! Apr 29, 2013
We did this in light rain and the route was dry below the "X'd" jug, but clipping the chains was dicey as the top was soaking wet and required an impromptu arm bar! Nov 18, 2013
Boston, MA
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
GMC3500
Los Angeles, CA
goffstown, nh