Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Dr. Steve Johnson - the bird guy
Page Views: 5,460 total · 38/month
Shared By: Ladd on Apr 14, 2007 with updates from George Grzyb
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Classic at the grade.

Stick clip first bolt, which until it is replaced, is likely a spinner, making that a challenge.

Start low on a very textured large hold and get high feet, extend up and left to gain another rail-ish type hold that is interesting, get high feet and either go up and left to catch the flake in an undercling or go out right to catch the arete and couple of heucos and some more interesting moves to eventually gain the flake 4 feet above the bottom undercling. Continue up the flake (it is solid to pull on, just not for gear)to gain the jugs to clip the anchors.

Harder for shorter climbers.
A great climb for the 5.11- climber to work out/tick.
A great climb to burn out on for the 5.11-5.12 climber.

Be careful cleaning on the lower that you don't pendulum into the rock behind you. It may be better to have someone clean while seconding.



At the lowest point of the triple corners V.


4 bolts to chains. Watch out for hitting the ledge to your left if you botch the 2nd clip.
Concord, NH
BrianWinslow   Concord, NH
This route is classic, as Ladd said there are options at the bottom, and I choose to leave my hands out of the two obvious Heuco's, however they make great foot holds. At the top it is possible and fun to knee bar before clipping the anchors. Aug 21, 2007
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
i found this route to be way easier after learning to handjam... i hate laybacks with a passion... Aug 21, 2007
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
Just to get a better idea about this route how many bolts are there? Dec 15, 2008
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
its like 4-5 bolts... Dec 15, 2008
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
Here is a video link of Mike Thompson warming up on Loose and Baggy 5.8+ then flashing Man with the Hueco in His tights 5.11b...
youtube.com/watch?v=4XxVEpi… Jun 3, 2009
twellman   Cambridge
An awesome short route! Gets easier as you go, so don't stop cranking! The start is very powerful and bouldery, with a few options. The clips arent too hard if you find some good heel hooks and or knee bars. Jul 19, 2009
New Hampshire
rdlennon   New Hampshire
The presence of the block makes this otherwise excellent route a bit contrived. The entire crux basically amounts to a sit start to the real route, since you can stem or step onto the block at any point. The whole thing is fun, but it's weird having to call a part of it 'off'. Aug 29, 2009
twellman   Cambridge
I think this route might actually feel more like 10d, especially when you know the moves... there is no way in hell it is as hard as Flyin Hawaiin. Stick clipping the second bolt, which is not a bad idea with that rock below you, makes it considerably easier. May 10, 2010
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
10d/11a. It feels to me about the same difficuly as Student Loan and Clusterphobia May 11, 2010
S. Neoh
S. Neoh  
Start on the ground and not the raised block; it adds two interesting moves to the climb and raises the overall quality.
I second Mark's grade suggestion; just a tiny bit harder than Clusterphobia. Aug 1, 2010
For us who are challenged by stick clipping - especially when not using a stick but leaning out over the "abyss" - it would be nice to fix the damn spinning hanger. Aug 2, 2010
Jake D.
Jake D.   Northeast
Eric, Now that I have this route dialed the stick clipping IS the crux ;). if you stand up on the block and clip from there it isn't too bad. ask your son, he'll teach you how to stick clip .11+ Sep 15, 2010
Matt Glue
Boulder, CO
Matt Glue   Boulder, CO
Awesome route! The new guidebook calls it 11a. I would agree, especially if you know how to handjam. Aug 9, 2011
Lanky   Tired
This would be a fantastic short route, but the first big flake creaked when I pulled on it, which I found thoroughly disconcerting. Definitely harder than Clusterphobia in my opinion, but not two letter grades. Aug 13, 2012
Eric Heiden
Derry, NH
Eric Heiden   Derry, NH
Sent this in 2 tries this weekend - 1 follow, 1 lead. No hand-jamming necessary for me. Very fun climbing, whatever the grade is. Apr 29, 2013
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
"no hand jams necessary" makes it sound like it's something to avoid when you can :P
thats like saying, didnt need the kneebars or something... i will climb 10' off route to find a hand jam or a kneebar even if its a warm up haha...
all jokes aside, Nice Job!!!!! Apr 29, 2013
The Fat Kid  
Is there a reason why the clipping jug for the fourth bolt has a big "X" on it? My partner and I agreed that it felt really solid as of 11/17/13.

We did this in light rain and the route was dry below the "X'd" jug, but clipping the chains was dicey as the top was soaking wet and required an impromptu arm bar! Nov 18, 2013
Alissa Doherty
Boston, MA
Alissa Doherty   Boston, MA
I believe the guidebook makes note, but this climbs a bit differently for a short folks. I found it required alternate beta in two places before gaining the crack/flake. It's a nice (but tough) puzzle for the vertically challenged. Jun 16, 2014
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Wicked fun short climb, but no way is it a 5.11 (at least not for tall people). I thought cleaning the route was harder (and definitely more strenuous) than climbing it. Too bad the big flake isn't two or three times as long. If it were, this route would be a New Hampshire classic. Aug 13, 2014
George Grzyb  
A few spinning bolt hangers. Unable to fix as it appears my 9/16 wrench is not compatible with most bolts at Rumney. Oct 21, 2014
Eli .
Eli .   GMC3500
All bolts are spinners. Lots of flexing holds on this route. Still pretty fun. Aug 2, 2015
Los Angeles, CA
teresamatrix   Los Angeles, CA
A basketball size chunk of this climb has fallen off of this climb somewhere near the bottom. It must have happened sometime in the last three weeks. The opening moves are now harder, but I'm not sure to what degree... Sep 21, 2015
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
knew that was coming... I look forward to seeing how it climbs now... Sep 24, 2015
S. Neoh
S. Neoh  
Almost no change, Lee. The block that fell off came from about 4 feet below the 1st bolt. The start (from the ground, people, not the block) might be a bit harder but the overall difficulty of the route is unchanged. We all commented how much slicker the footholds felt today so it felt .11a to me today. :) Oct 11, 2015