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Routes in Triple Corners Left

Amore Eel S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Birch Corner T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Birch Fist T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Blues for Mowgli S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Drilldo S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hassig's Libido T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ladybug Death Orgy T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Loose and Baggy S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Man With a Hueco in His Tights S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Promises S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
That's a Moray T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Triple Delights S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Triple Fisting T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Walking the Devil T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Way off route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c X
Where am I ? S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 107 total · 1/month
Shared By: lee hansche on May 6, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

Another fun (if a little dirty) crack climbing adventure at rumney. I thought it climbed really nicely so if you like this sort of thing fear not. There is great protection and the crux is over at about 20 feet up.

Stem up with good hand jams to the roof where you get a nice jug and good foot holds to get a good piece or 2 in the crack before pulling the crux. Layback and jam out right on a nice hand crack, watch for a good foot out right before and awkward move back left puts you at the tree and the more moderate climbing. Climb up and right of the roof above and on to big trees to belay (no fixed anchor) rap from here or scramble (technical in parts) to the left and on to solid ground in about 200 feet.

Route Map: mountainproject.com/v/new_h…

Location

The far left end of Triple Corners. Continue left of the last bolted routes at the cliff, you scramble over a fallen tree and a couple of small boulders and look for cracked a corner on your right with a birch tree growing out of it at about 20 feet up.

Protection

Regular rack. belay from trees and rappel or do a 200 foot scramble left (stay roped up) to safe ground.

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Eli
GMC3500
 
Eli   GMC3500
 
This route could use an anchor bolted into the roof above the ledge that the independent line ends on. This purposed anchor could also be shared with Birch Fist. Running either of these lines into the anchor up the chimney becomes a real rope burner. Aug 10, 2015
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
So i was going to lead the fist crack to the left of Birch Corner but it started raining. I'll do it sometime.

The OW looks rad but i agree it needs some rock cleaned out of it. thanks for the anchor up there. May 6, 2009
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Lee, did you try the cracks to the left? I TRed the one just left and worked on the overhanging offwidth just left of that(can't remember if I linked it). There is a two bolt anchor at the top of the chimney above. The offwidth is pretty cool, but needs a big loose flake or two cleaned out of the inside. Also, watch out. The way I was climbing it my head was inside and a slip would have entailed my head getting jammed at the lip and possibly pinched off...otherwise very fun.

Also, there is another bolted route up towards the Hinterlands a little more, right of the gully with the fixed rope. I called it Where AM I. I think it was an easy ten. The easy bottom is filthy, but the top was all cleaned May 6, 2009