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Routes in The Castle

5.9 crack climb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Betterman T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Camel Walk, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Castle Corner aka Unnamed 5.10 T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dalke - Jennings T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dewitt Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dungeon, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Great Chimney Route T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Guillotine T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hardgumbi's Lament T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nose, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rapunzel T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Schmauser - Bohannon Route T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Southeast Gully T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Throne Room T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Uncle Wiggly T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wiggins Route T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Winterlude T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
You Can't Chop This T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: VFA: Mike Colacino, Ron Kirk
Page Views: 613 total · 6/month
Shared By: Bill Duncan on Jul 6, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

The first pitch climbs an easy crack to a left-arching dihedral. Climb out the arch to a vertical, left-facing dihedral, and climb up to the stance (marked as 1 in the photo), 5.9.

The second pitch follows the crack straight up (crux) and then traverses left to another crack. The crack is fairly small (RPs/HBs) until you reach the traverse. These are very nice delicate moves. It is brass city.

I thought I'd put it on the map as a VFA (virtual FA). It was climbed in the late '80s/early '90s. If anyone has conflicting information, please let me know.

Location

This route starts to the right of the prominent arete on the left side of the central Castle face. Find the striking 5.10 dihedral on the left side of the face and count the cracks from left to right. Crack number 4 is Uncle Wiggly. It looks like this climber is on the 2nd pitch:
mountainproject.com/v/color…

Protection

Bring all your brass for the second pitch. Otherwise a standard Platte rack ought to do it.

Photos

Tommy Ormond
Eldorado Springs, CO
Tommy Ormond   Eldorado Springs, CO
If you climb up the first bit of Uncle Wiggly, then instead of going out left to traverse under the overhang and into the left-facing corner, keep going up the bush filled crack. The vegetation ends - it gets nice, steep fingers and ends at a small overhang, a few moves on the face right brings you to another crack, easier and wider.

What is this route? Jun 24, 2013
This route is actually in between Castle Corner and Throne Room and begins close to Castle Corner. Feb 15, 2013