Great Chimney Route
Avg: 1.7 from 3 votes
Routes in The Castle
|5.9 crack climb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Betterman T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Camel Walk, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Castle Corner aka Unnamed 5.10 T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Dalke - Jennings T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b|
|Dewitt Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Dungeon, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Great Chimney Route T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|Guillotine T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Hardgumbi's Lament T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Nose, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Rapunzel T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Schmauser - Bohannon Route T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Southeast Gully T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Throne Room T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Uncle Wiggly T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Wiggins Route T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Winterlude T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|You Can't Chop This T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Type:||Trad, 500 ft, 4 pitches|
|Page Views:||134 total, 2/month|
|Shared By:||Tzilla Rapdrilla on Feb 15, 2013|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis route ascends the cleft between the two big chunks of the Castle itself. Look for a big chimney feature in a right facing flake feature directly below some blocky roofs. All pitches are between 100 & 140.
P1 5.8 Chimney your way up miscellaneous stuff for about 125 to a ledge.
P2 5.9- - Follow the main corner/cracks up and slightly leftwards to a belay ledge.
P3 Head up & right across the main chimney system to more a more appealing looking crack. Continue up to a roof which is passed on the right side (crux) and then up to a belay.
P4 Head left towards a right-facing corner and then up a crack system to the final slabs.
LocationThe major chimney system that splits the main crag halfway between The Nose route and the big, tree filled gully.
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