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Routes in The Castle

5.9 crack climb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Betterman T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Camel Walk, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Castle Corner aka Unnamed 5.10 T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dalke - Jennings T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dewitt Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dungeon, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Great Chimney Route T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Guillotine T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hardgumbi's Lament T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nose, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rapunzel T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Schmauser - Bohannon Route T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Southeast Gully T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Throne Room T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Uncle Wiggly T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wiggins Route T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Winterlude T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
You Can't Chop This T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 500 ft, 4 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 155 total · 2/month
Shared By: Tzilla Rapdrilla on Feb 15, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description [Edit]

This route ascends the cleft between the two big chunks of the Castle itself. Look for a big chimney feature in a right facing flake feature directly below some blocky roofs. All pitches are between 100’ & 140’.

P1 – 5.8 – Chimney your way up miscellaneous stuff for about 125’ to a ledge.

P2 – 5.9- - Follow the main corner/cracks up and slightly leftwards to a belay ledge.

P3 – Head up & right across the main chimney system to more a more appealing looking crack. Continue up to a roof which is passed on the right side (crux) and then up to a belay.

P4 – Head left towards a right-facing corner and then up a crack system to the final slabs.

Location [Edit]

The major chimney system that splits the main crag halfway between The Nose route and the big, tree filled gully.

Protection [Edit]

Gear to 6".

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