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Routes in The Castle

5.9 crack climb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Betterman T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Camel Walk, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Castle Corner aka Unnamed 5.10 T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dalke - Jennings T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dewitt Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dungeon, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Great Chimney Route T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Guillotine T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hardgumbi's Lament T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nose, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rapunzel T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Schmauser - Bohannon Route T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Southeast Gully T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Throne Room T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Uncle Wiggly T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wiggins Route T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Winterlude T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
You Can't Chop This T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 500 ft, 4 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 134 total, 2/month
Shared By: Tzilla Rapdrilla on Feb 15, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This route ascends the cleft between the two big chunks of the Castle itself. Look for a big chimney feature in a right facing flake feature directly below some blocky roofs. All pitches are between 100’ & 140’.

P1 – 5.8 – Chimney your way up miscellaneous stuff for about 125’ to a ledge.

P2 – 5.9- - Follow the main corner/cracks up and slightly leftwards to a belay ledge.

P3 – Head up & right across the main chimney system to more a more appealing looking crack. Continue up to a roof which is passed on the right side (crux) and then up to a belay.

P4 – Head left towards a right-facing corner and then up a crack system to the final slabs.

Location

The major chimney system that splits the main crag halfway between The Nose route and the big, tree filled gully.

Protection

Gear to 6".

Photos

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