Type: Trad, 425 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: Earl Wiggins
Page Views: 2,112 total · 22/month
Shared By: Lenny Miller on Jul 23, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


7 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This is another stellar line at The Castle mixing crack (fingers to OW), stemming, and face climbing, leading up one of the more prominent lines on the left side of the SE buttress.

P1: Flake your rope just below the obvious, overhanging OW on the arete (The Dungeon), and head for twin cracks up a slightly overhanging bulge (crux). Continue up another corner/crack to belay atop a sloping pedestal, at the base of the splitter crack system heading straight up the face (10b, 175').

P2: Follow the beautiful (and sustained and burly!) hand crack, passing a short discontinuity where the crack fizzles out for a few feet, and top out on a big ledge (and catch your breath). Move up and right 15' to another (bigger) ledge, below the P3 OW and headwall, and belay and enjoy the view (10a, 140').

P3: Move to the right edge of the belay ledge and grunt up the OW formed by the left side of a large flake. From the top of the flake, head left across the face, passing 2 bolts (crux), and head up a lower angle (easy but not well-protected) scoop to the summit (10b, 110').

Descent:

Three raps down the gully behind the Parapet (left of the Throne Room). It is best to have a 70m rope for the first rap (although down-climbing and/or setting an intermediate rap looks possible with a 60m).

Location

This is one of the more prominent lines on the left side of the left buttress on the SE face, just right of The Dungeon. The second pitch follows the striking splitter crack midway up the left side of the buttress, which is visible from the approach trail.

Protection

Bring wires and cams to 4" with doubles on 1/2" to 3" cams, long slings, and an optional #2(?) BigBro for P3. Two bolts protect the crux of P3.

Photos