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Wiggins Route
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British PG13
Avg: 3.6 from 7
votes
Routes in The Castle
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Betterman T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Camel Walk, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Castle Corner aka Unnamed 5.10 T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Dalke - Jennings T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Dewitt Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dungeon, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Great Chimney Route T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Guillotine T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Hardgumbi's Lament T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Nose, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Parapet Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rapunzel T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Schmauser - Bohannon Route T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Southeast Gully T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Throne Room T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Uncle Wiggly T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Wiggins Route T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Winterlude T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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You Can't Chop This T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 425 ft (129 m), 3 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Earl Wiggins |
| Page Views: | 2,740 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | Lenny Miller on Jul 23, 2012 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This is another stellar line at The Castle mixing crack (fingers to OW), stemming, and face climbing, leading up one of the more prominent lines on the left side of the SE buttress.
P1: Flake your rope just below the obvious, overhanging OW on the arete (The Dungeon), and head for twin cracks up a slightly overhanging bulge (crux). Continue up another corner/crack to belay atop a sloping pedestal, at the base of the splitter crack system heading straight up the face (10b, 175').
P2: Follow the beautiful (and sustained and burly!) hand crack, passing a short discontinuity where the crack fizzles out for a few feet, and top out on a big ledge (and catch your breath). Move up and right 15' to another (bigger) ledge, below the P3 OW and headwall, and belay and enjoy the view (10a, 140').
P3: Move to the right edge of the belay ledge and grunt up the OW formed by the left side of a large flake. From the top of the flake, head left across the face, passing 2 bolts (crux), and head up a lower angle (easy but not well-protected) scoop to the summit (10b, 110').
Descent:
Three raps down the gully behind the Parapet (left of the Throne Room). It is best to have a 70m rope for the first rap (although down-climbing and/or setting an intermediate rap looks possible with a 60m).
P1: Flake your rope just below the obvious, overhanging OW on the arete (The Dungeon), and head for twin cracks up a slightly overhanging bulge (crux). Continue up another corner/crack to belay atop a sloping pedestal, at the base of the splitter crack system heading straight up the face (10b, 175').
P2: Follow the beautiful (and sustained and burly!) hand crack, passing a short discontinuity where the crack fizzles out for a few feet, and top out on a big ledge (and catch your breath). Move up and right 15' to another (bigger) ledge, below the P3 OW and headwall, and belay and enjoy the view (10a, 140').
P3: Move to the right edge of the belay ledge and grunt up the OW formed by the left side of a large flake. From the top of the flake, head left across the face, passing 2 bolts (crux), and head up a lower angle (easy but not well-protected) scoop to the summit (10b, 110').
Descent:
Three raps down the gully behind the Parapet (left of the Throne Room). It is best to have a 70m rope for the first rap (although down-climbing and/or setting an intermediate rap looks possible with a 60m).
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