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Routes in The Castle

5.9 crack climb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Betterman T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Camel Walk, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Castle Corner aka Unnamed 5.10 T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dalke - Jennings T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dewitt Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dungeon, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Great Chimney Route T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Guillotine T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hardgumbi's Lament T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nose, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rapunzel T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Schmauser - Bohannon Route T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Southeast Gully T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Throne Room T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Uncle Wiggly T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wiggins Route T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Winterlude T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
You Can't Chop This T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 1000 ft, 5 pitches
FA: ??
Page Views: 4,583 total, 32/month
Shared By: Jeremy Hakes on Apr 7, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

The route follows the SE gully up to the summit. The first "pitch" is a small crack climb 5.4, which Roach calls one of the cruxes. Just to the east on the face, lots of good face climbing exists with the flakes and slabs of Pikes Peak granite. This is a short pitch. From there, the easiest line that exists to the summit is only class 3 until you get to the top of the hanging garden. There, you can climb a tree to a crack (class 3) to another tree, and then from there to the class 5.4x traverse to the main summit. This is an exposed little traverse, and a little scary, but many people free-solo it. We roped up for the first pitch and summit pitch and used a 30M rope. There are tons of different routes available all over the gully, and we kept the climbing at a more difficult 4+ (with a few 5.0-5.5 spots) all the way to the summit, just for the sake of spiciness. The final summit block was climbed (FA?) by the SSE face - about 30' high, and a flaring off-width (5.7+). We installed a new extra-long sling from the summit block over the east face with 2 new rap rings to rappel down using our 30M rope, which was just long enough. Follow the same route down that you came up.

Location

From the Wellington Lake TH, hike directly to the south ridge of the Castle, and follow the easily discernible gully to the summit. There is another gully on the NE face that is much steeper, but probably also climbable.

Protection

No fixed pro exists. We used cams (.5-3.0) and a few taper nuts and tri-cams for the climb. Tri-cams are awesome for this climb.
Christopher Jones
Denver, Colorado
 
Christopher Jones   Denver, Colorado
 
This is a good fun solo climb, take a rope to rappel or down climb. While training for bigger alpine climbs I was able to do this route in under 2 hours from car to car. Dec 8, 2006