Castle Corner aka Unnamed 5.10
Avg: 3.7 from 28 votes
Routes in The Castle
|5.9 crack climb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Betterman T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Camel Walk, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Castle Corner aka Unnamed 5.10 T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Dalke - Jennings T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b|
|Dewitt Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Dungeon, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Great Chimney Route T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|Guillotine T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Hardgumbi's Lament T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Nose, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Rapunzel T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Schmauser - Bohannon Route T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Southeast Gully T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Throne Room T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Uncle Wiggly T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Wiggins Route T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Winterlude T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|You Can't Chop This T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Type:||Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches|
|Page Views:||4,920 total, 39/month|
|Shared By:||Jason Kaplan on Aug 27, 2007|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionCastle Corner has 3 pitches of granite crack climbing. It is pure joy.
P1. Work your way up cracks and hollow flakes to the flake with many slings. The first time I climbed this, I stayed mostly left until the long reach below the flake, and then traversed to the right under the flake and back into the right crack until traversing to the flake. The second time around I found you could stem up for a good distance and the gear on the right seemed a lot easier to place then on the hollow crap on the left (although I followed it this time). SPICY! It is at least 8+ if not 9+.
P2. Head up 2 off width cracks strait up the corner with some interesting movement and fun climbing. Up higher the left side crack squeezes out and you must stem between it and the now quite wide crack on the right. This felt pretty sustained and harder in the upper to mid-section of the pitch 5.8 - 8+. Get some good gear in the horizontal crack at the base of the crux sequence. Then fire up the 10-15 foot crux boulder problem to the belay, 5.10-.
P3. Head up either of 2 parallel cracks to the upper section where you encounter the crux OW slot/roof exit to the top 5.9-5.10. We took the left crack which was thin hands, hands and where the angle mellowed out it was a bit wider. The beginning of the pitch was somewhat sustained but the mid section was really cruiser, then you're kinda thrown off for the somewhat awkward crux.
Kevin's description of the descent was dead on, and it can mostly be seen the whole time while climbing, I made it down in my tennies.
ProtectionStandard SP rack with some big stuff. I took up to a #6 Camalot.
The second time back we brought a double rack from blue Aliens up to a #4 Camalot (used both #4s on pitch 2 and leap frogged one of them for a while), a single #5, 4 #3s (quite useful actually used them all on pitch 2), 3 #2s and I still leap frogged gear up the 5.8. At one point I remember thinking to myself another #5 and/or a #6 would be an easy placement, instead I think I fought for a nut that was a bit less easy to place.