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Routes in The Castle

5.9 crack climb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Betterman T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Camel Walk, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Castle Corner aka Unnamed 5.10 T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dalke - Jennings T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dewitt Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dungeon, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Great Chimney Route T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Guillotine T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hardgumbi's Lament T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nose, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rapunzel T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Schmauser - Bohannon Route T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Southeast Gully T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Throne Room T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Uncle Wiggly T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wiggins Route T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Winterlude T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
You Can't Chop This T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 600 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Peter Williams & Keith Schoepflin, c. 1984.
Page Views: 6,069 total, 50/month
Shared By: Jeremy Hakes on Jan 13, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Climb the right hand crack starting at the base of the Parapet, the second major inset in. This route goes to the top of the Parapet.

Location

Per Kevin Stricker: The Throne Room is actually the left of two obvious, crack systems on the west face of the Parapet (the right one is the Dungeon).

There is a 165' rappel off the top of the Parapet.

Protection

Trad. No known bolts/FP.
The newish SPlatte guidebook suggests that P1 and P2 are 100 feet each and can be run together. Assuming P2 should end at the alcove that forms the OW crux, then that doesn't work. P1 is about 140 feet to the start of the traverse and with a 70m you run out of rope way before (like 40 or 50 feet) the standard P2 belay. Oct 16, 2017
Jonathan Stickel
Golden, CO
  5.10b/c PG13
Jonathan Stickel   Golden, CO
  5.10b/c PG13
Fantastic! Pitch 2 is as good as it gets. Per the suggestions, we belayed after the traverse at the top of pitch 1, mainly to avoid traversing right off the belay. Setting an anchor was no gimme, though, so YMMV. Nearly no chance for pro on that traverse either and too pumpy to place it anyway. Jul 3, 2016
Nick Spitznagle
Denver, Co
5.10
Nick Spitznagle   Denver, Co
5.10
^^Aaron,

In regards to your comments, just thought I would share my experience, since we just climbed up there on Friday. It was my first time up there as well. *This only reflects my experience and isn't intended to disprove any of your opinions.*

The trail most definitely does exist and is the easiest way to the base of all climbs. Bushwhacking would be very difficult and not recommended (see comments on The Castle's main MP page for directions).

I recommend setting the belay atop pitch 1 after the traverse. The crack is much better and larger gear can be used there.

Rappelling the gully was interesting and fun! I agree, be very careful not to pull rocks down or catch your rope in the chockstones (which we luckily avoided). The rap stations were typical SPlatte tat, but the rock it was slung over seemed good enough to me. If I go up there again, I plan to bring some fresh new webbing for a few rap stations, but nothing was completely worn through yet.

Glad you guys had an adventure up there as well! May 23, 2016
Aaron Furman
  5.10c PG13
Aaron Furman  
  5.10c PG13
Hi everyone,

Just some food for thought, this is an intense approach, the locals will state for the record that there is a trail, but it is the equivalent of nothingness, so plan on trailblazing your way up to the crag which is an intense 1600 ft elevation gain.

The base of the climb is pretty self-explanatory (look for the Z Crack). First belay station is 3 pieces of RPDs (very small and in a place that makes it very hard to have a belay and continue on climbing).

Pitch #2: very self explanatory.

Pitch #3: intense bulge with cool movement (keep your gear on your left side, lol). Once you get about 20 meters up over the bulge, you will see a single fixed bolt, clip and continue up and over to the very top (again, keep going past the point where you are praying that this isn't the belay station).

Rappeling:

Be safe, this gully just wants to keep your rope AGAIN, BE CAREFUL WHEN PULLING YOUR ROPE!!!

2nd belay is off of a VERY, VERY, VERY SKETCHY CHOCKSTONE (AKA FLAKE). We were intimidated to say the least and paper, rock, scissored who was going to go first. Again be careful pulling your line, this entire rappel was difficult.

Wear good supported boots, and bring water. May 23, 2016
Abel Jones
Bishop, ca
  5.10
Abel Jones   Bishop, ca
  5.10
The bolt is new...though it does not keep you off the ledge at all. Sep 2, 2015
Andrew Krueger
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Andrew Krueger   Colorado Springs, Colorado
Would it be wrong to replace the P3 bolt with a 3/8" SS (in the same hole)? Or just unnecessary? Curious as to the feelings of the pioneers and others. Thanks. Jul 29, 2014
Stellar climbing - beautiful line and continuous, varied, and awesome position. Do it! Some thoughts to add to the above comments:

P1: in hindsight I think it would be better to belay after the traverse (see photo) - better stance, better gear, and easier climbing for the transition.

P2: traversing about 5' above the horizontal (2nd horizontal as shown in Jeremy's photo) worked well and I was able to get a good #3 Wallnut, in a patina split on the face, for protection.

P3: the hardest moves are off the belay, but unless you bring large gear, you'll be running it out on 5.8 OW for 20ft or so. The mantel Clint referred to is also about 5.8 and is protected by an ancient, rusted, 1/4" bolt with a drilled, knifeblade hanger.

We got off easily with a single 60m rope. It required about 15ft of 4th class downclimbing after the first rap. Three raps total to the ground.

It seemed to us that both P1 and P2 were about 50m each. Linking these would be awesome, but with 60 or 70m ropes, you had better be really solid on 5.10, as you will be doing a lot of simul-climbing on 5.10 terrain. Sep 9, 2013
Clint Locks
Boulder
  5.10b PG13
Clint Locks   Boulder
  5.10b PG13
Be advised that, although it's an astounding position and a great climb, the final few moves of pitch 3 include an awkward mantel ("protected" by an old 1/4 bolt) onto the final summit slab. If you blow it here, it would be very bad. Sep 25, 2012
Pete Williams
Dinosaur, Colorado
Pete Williams   Dinosaur, Colorado
I just uploaded some photos of Keith Schoepflin on the FA of The Throne Room. Also a scenic of The Castle taken from the air in 1983. Keith had a friend with a plane, so one day we had him fly us all over the South Platte. Actually, our primary object was to scope out new rocks to climb in the Lost Creek area (and we certainly found a few that later provided some adventures), but along the way we had the opportunity to photograph a lot of the major domes around the Platte area. Apr 1, 2008
Olaf Mitchell
Paia, Maui, Hi,
Olaf Mitchell   Paia, Maui, Hi,
Hay Pete,
As an old time South Platte rat myself, I look forward to your archival images and tales. Aloha. Olaf. Apr 1, 2008
YDPL8S
Santa Monica, Ca.
YDPL8S   Santa Monica, Ca.
Hey Pete, Can't wait to see those old pics. Historical pictures and personal accounts are very much appreciated on this site. Welcome aboard! Apr 1, 2008
Pete Williams
Dinosaur, Colorado
Pete Williams   Dinosaur, Colorado
Hey, Pete G., I just came across this site by accident, and I'm new to posting here. I'm interested in posting some historical photos/topos/accounts from my journals of those great South Platte days of the late 70s and early 80s, but they'll have to follow later.

In the mean time, I want to say that to the best of my recollection (and from the faint processing dates stamped on my slides), Keith and I actually climbed The Dungeon in 1983, and then wised up enough to come back in 1984 to climb our favorite, the Throne Room. We called the spire-like point these climbs summited on "The Parapet," but it was clear at the time that we weren't the first to get to the top of it. The last pitch of "The Dungeon" was actually a free ascent of a pitch that was likely aided by Boulder climbers of the late 50s or early 60s (the two Star Drivn bolts with modified knifeblade piton hangers were our clue to this). I think the first ascent of the Parapet actually climbed awful-looking, rotten slabs around to the right of our routes. Apr 1, 2008
Kevin Stricker
Evergreen, CO
  5.10
Kevin Stricker   Evergreen, CO
  5.10
The Throne Room is actually the left of two obvious, crack systems on the west face of the Parapet (the right one is the Dungeon). The route is closer to 300', it's been climbed in one monster pitch with a 70m rope and about 60 feet of simulclimbing.

Most people find the crux to be the traverse right at the top of the first pitch, although the flared, fist crack at the start of pitch 3 is no gimme. You can get down with a single 70m rope, but watch pulling down rocks in the loose gully between the Parapet and Castle. You should not climb this route during nesting season as peregrines often nest in the perfect bowl at the second pitch belay.

Also be warned that several climbers have had close calls with lightning climbing on the Parapet. Storms like to gather around the Castle, and you do not get a lot of warning when the big ones roll in.

The Throne Room is probably one of the best multi-pitch routes in the S. Platte, with beautiful views, great rock, and interesting cruxes. Well worth the grunt of an approach. Jan 13, 2008