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Routes in The Castle

5.9 crack climb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Betterman T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Camel Walk, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Castle Corner aka Unnamed 5.10 T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dalke - Jennings T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dewitt Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dungeon, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Great Chimney Route T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Guillotine T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hardgumbi's Lament T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nose, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rapunzel T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Schmauser - Bohannon Route T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Southeast Gully T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Throne Room T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Uncle Wiggly T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wiggins Route T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Winterlude T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
You Can't Chop This T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: VFA: Bill Duncan, Paul Midkiff
Page Views: 661 total · 6/month
Shared By: Bill Duncan on Jun 11, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description [Suggest Change]

This is climb #2 in the photo, and starts up the gully a short ways. Beautiful jams in excellent rock lead to a steep face where things get thin and you encounter a bulge about 100' up (crux). Small cams/medium wires protect this well. Continue up to the ledge. The 2nd pitch is negligible.

Perhaps this crack and others on the Garrison were climbed decades ago,
but I thought I'd put it on the map as a VFA (virtual FA). Climbed in
the late 80's/early 90's. If anyone has conflicting information, please let me know.

Location [Suggest Change]

Quite a few folks I think were referring to this formation on the lower
right side of the Castle as the Garrison, so I'll continue to use that designation.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Standard Platte rack. Small cams assist protecting the crux.

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