Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Castle

5.9 crack climb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Betterman T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Camel Walk, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Castle Corner aka Unnamed 5.10 T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dalke - Jennings T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dewitt Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dungeon, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Great Chimney Route T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Guillotine T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hardgumbi's Lament T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nose, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rapunzel T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Schmauser - Bohannon Route T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Southeast Gully T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Throne Room T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Uncle Wiggly T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wiggins Route T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Winterlude T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
You Can't Chop This T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: VFA: Bill Duncan, Paul Midkiff
Page Views: 672 total · 6/month
Shared By: Bill Duncan on Jun 11, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This is climb #2 in the photo, and starts up the gully a short ways. Beautiful jams in excellent rock lead to a steep face where things get thin and you encounter a bulge about 100' up (crux). Small cams/medium wires protect this well. Continue up to the ledge. The 2nd pitch is negligible.

Perhaps this crack and others on the Garrison were climbed decades ago,
but I thought I'd put it on the map as a VFA (virtual FA). Climbed in
the late 80's/early 90's. If anyone has conflicting information, please let me know.

Location

Quite a few folks I think were referring to this formation on the lower
right side of the Castle as the Garrison, so I'll continue to use that designation.

Protection

Standard Platte rack. Small cams assist protecting the crux.

Photos

0 Comments

More About Winterlude

Printer-Friendly