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Routes in The Castle

5.9 crack climb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Betterman T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Camel Walk, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Castle Corner aka Unnamed 5.10 T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dalke - Jennings T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dewitt Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dungeon, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Great Chimney Route T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Guillotine T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hardgumbi's Lament T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nose, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rapunzel T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Schmauser - Bohannon Route T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Southeast Gully T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Throne Room T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Uncle Wiggly T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wiggins Route T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Winterlude T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
You Can't Chop This T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 84 total, 1/month
Shared By: Tzilla Rapdrilla on Feb 28, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Follow the first two pitches of the Dalke - Jennings. There are minor variations possible on these pitches.

Pitch 3 - 5.11 - Look for some sweet finger cracks above the belay. Climb these until the interesting part is over and rap, or continue on to the summit.


Start 50' left of Great Chimney Route.


Gear to 3".


- No Photos -
Tod, I fully support mountainproject and I add routes on here all the time, including to areas we write books for, but I never take a description from someone else's book and regurgitate it on here without any first hand knowledge of the route. I'm not doubting your prolific climbing experience, even with trad climbing. And maybe you did this (and the other) routes and our book helped "jog" your memory. If so, I'm glad the guidebook is useful to you. However, I'd like to remind you of what I told you before: we built some subtle systems into our book that would catch people if they tried to plagerize our guidebook. It's not something we take lightly. Thank you again for the photo of Secret Climb One as well as for the other information you contributed to the book. Mar 4, 2013
Wow, that's a truly amazing talent, knowing exactly what routes everyone was doing before you were even born. Maybe someday I'll find some more ancient photos of me climbing 5.11 Splatte trad routes, like the one of the first ascent in colorful garb of Secret Climb One, or whatever it's called at Twisted Sister, and post those up on the internet somewhere. Mar 4, 2013
Tod Anderson (username Tzilla Rapdrilla), why do you keep adding descriptions for routes you've never climbed? Mar 3, 2013