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Routes in The Castle
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Betterman T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Camel Walk, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Castle Corner aka Unnamed 5.10 T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Dalke - Jennings T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Dewitt Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dungeon, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Great Chimney Route T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Guillotine T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Hardgumbi's Lament T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Nose, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Parapet Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rapunzel T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Schmauser - Bohannon Route T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Southeast Gully T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Throne Room T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Uncle Wiggly T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Wiggins Route T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Winterlude T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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You Can't Chop This T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 180 ft (55 m) |
| FA: | Patrick Peddy, Lee Marsh, Rusty Kirkpatrick |
| Page Views: | 3,236 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | Patrick Peddy on Apr 15, 2009 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This is the sustained, tight-hands crack located on the climbers' right side wall at the entrance of the mountaineer's gully. There is no real crux to this climb, but if you've gotten through the first hundred feet you're probably on your way to the send. There used to be a loose flake in the pod about 80 feet up, but last checked it wasn't there. Make sure you have finger and thin-hand-size gear left after the last roof as the climb keeps going although difficulty eases. Set up a belay at the obvious shelf with finger-size pro. The scramble off is obvious from the belay. A photo of the route can be viewed if you click on the pic of the Turret on the Castle web page.
Location
Locate the mountaineer's gully which is prominent thrashfest a few hundred feet right of the large open area where Throne Room and The Dungeon are located. At the entrance to the gully, the right wall has three cracks running through it. Rapunzal is the center, best-looking line. Scramble 10' up to a nice ledge and rope up there.
The crack to the right was done by Lou Bartell in early '90s and has long offwith stretches up high although you can do a short version and lower off some fixed slings rabbit runnered through a hole.
The crack to the right was done by Lou Bartell in early '90s and has long offwith stretches up high although you can do a short version and lower off some fixed slings rabbit runnered through a hole.
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