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Routes in The Castle

5.9 crack climb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Betterman T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Camel Walk, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Castle Corner aka Unnamed 5.10 T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dalke - Jennings T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dewitt Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dungeon, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Great Chimney Route T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Guillotine T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hardgumbi's Lament T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nose, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rapunzel T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Schmauser - Bohannon Route T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Southeast Gully T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Throne Room T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Uncle Wiggly T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wiggins Route T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Winterlude T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
You Can't Chop This T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 180 ft
FA: Patrick Peddy
Page Views: 1,714 total, 16/month
Shared By: Patrick Peddy on Apr 15, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is the sustained, tight-hands crack located on the climbers' right side wall at the entrance of the mountaineer's gully. There is no real crux to this climb, but if you've gotten through the first hundred feet you're probably on your way to the send. There used to be a loose flake in the pod about 80 feet up, but last checked it wasn't there. Make sure you have finger and thin-hand-size gear left after the last roof as the climb keeps going although difficulty eases. Set up a belay at the obvious shelf with finger-size pro. The scramble off is obvious from the belay. A photo of the route can be viewed if you click on the pic of the Turret on the Castle web page.

Location

Locate the mountaineer's gully which is prominent thrashfest a few hundred feet right of the large open area where Throne Room and The Dungeon are located. At the entrance to the gully, the right wall has three cracks running through it. Rapunzal is the center, best-looking line. Scramble 10' up to a nice ledge and rope up there.

The crack to the right was done by Lou Bartell in early '90s and has long offwith stretches up high although you can do a short version and lower off some fixed slings rabbit runnered through a hole.

Protection

Wires, singles #0.3-0.5 Camalots, triples #0.75 Camalot, 4-5 #1 Camalot, 2-3 #2 Camalot, and 1 #3 Camalot.

Photos

Abel Jones
Bishop, ca
  5.11b
Abel Jones   Bishop, ca
  5.11b
Burly. If you do this with just a double set... you're in for some puckering runouts between constrictions. This is quite rough on the hands too and would be less stars if it wasn't so sustained and long for a Colorado crack. Sep 2, 2015
stevecurtis
Petaluma California
stevecurtis   Petaluma California
Per Pat's Beta, I did this about 1998. Excellent long thin hands route with pro opportunity green Alien to blue Camalot. Medium to large nuts. A bit marred by the gully close by. The decent was a steep bushwhack. Sep 18, 2009