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Routes in The Castle

5.9 crack climb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Betterman T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Camel Walk, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Castle Corner aka Unnamed 5.10 T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dalke - Jennings T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dewitt Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dungeon, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Great Chimney Route T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Guillotine T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hardgumbi's Lament T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nose, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rapunzel T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Schmauser - Bohannon Route T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Southeast Gully T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Throne Room T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Uncle Wiggly T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wiggins Route T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Winterlude T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
You Can't Chop This T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: VFA: Pat Peddy, Bill Duncan, Steve Anderton
Page Views: 71 total, 1/month
Shared By: Bill Duncan on Jun 11, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is climb # 4 on the photo. It is on the south face of the James Brown Pillar (6). Start on easy ground for 30 feet until you reach a small roof. Reach around to the left and place some blind brass, and then pull the roof (crux). There is an alternate 5.9 method farther to the left, but the original leader went this way. After pulling the small roof, there is a very nice jam crack leading to the top.

Perhaps this crack and others on the Garrison were climbed decades ago,
but I thought I'd put it on the map as a VFA (virtual FA). Climbed in
the late 80's/early 90's. If anyone has conflicting information, please let me know.

Location

On the small pillar to the north (right) of the Garrison.

Protection

Standard Platte rack

Photos

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