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Routes in The Castle

5.9 crack climb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Betterman T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Camel Walk, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Castle Corner aka Unnamed 5.10 T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dalke - Jennings T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dewitt Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dungeon, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Great Chimney Route T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Guillotine T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hardgumbi's Lament T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nose, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rapunzel T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Schmauser - Bohannon Route T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Southeast Gully T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Throne Room T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Uncle Wiggly T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wiggins Route T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Winterlude T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
You Can't Chop This T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: VFA: Mike Colacino, Bill Duncan
Page Views: 939 total, 9/month
Shared By: Bill Duncan on Jun 11, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is crack #1 in the photo, with a tree growing out of it halfway up. Scramble up the gully a short ways and climb the first crack on your left. The rock is high quality, but since the Castle doesn't get too much traffic, there may be some gardening in the crack. It is fingers and thin hands, with abundant face holds.

Perhaps this crack and others on the Garrison were climbed decades ago, but I thought I'd put it on the map as a VFA (virtual FA). We climbed it in the late '80s/early '90s. If anyone has conflicting information, please let me know.

Location

Quite a few folks I think were referring to this formation on the lower right side of the Castle as the Garrison, so I'll continue to use that designation.

Descend to the south down the mountaineer's gully.

Protection

South Platte rack. It gets wider at the top.

Photos

Jonathan Stickel
Golden, CO
 
Jonathan Stickel   Golden, CO
 
Bring your A game for this one. Off the belay on pitch 2 (the main pitch), the crack takes small gear and requires steep face climbing. Then the crack is sustained, fairly steep fingers, and the crack is full of dirt, forcing shallow holds. The crack gets wider and easier at about the tree. Even so, you will need to run out your pieces to make it all the way to the top, using all of a 60 m.

Descent is out the back and then down to the left (South). We belayed a good bit of the initial descent as it was definitely 5th class with exposure.

I gave it 2 stars due to the low-quality 1st pitch and because of how dirty (and bushy) it was. It would be better if more people climbed it! Jun 16, 2017
Climbed this with a friend around 2003 (+/- a few years) while a pair of other friends climbed Winterlude. I'd imagine they were both climbed earlier (despite a bit of gardening). A long walk, but well worth it. Oct 13, 2011