Avg: 2.5 from 2 votes
Routes in The Castle
|5.9 crack climb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Betterman T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Camel Walk, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Castle Corner aka Unnamed 5.10 T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Dalke - Jennings T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b|
|Dewitt Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Dungeon, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Great Chimney Route T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|Guillotine T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Hardgumbi's Lament T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Nose, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Rapunzel T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Schmauser - Bohannon Route T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Southeast Gully T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Throne Room T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Uncle Wiggly T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Wiggins Route T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Winterlude T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|You Can't Chop This T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Type:||Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||VFA: Mike Colacino, Bill Duncan|
|Page Views:||939 total, 9/month|
|Shared By:||Bill Duncan on Jun 11, 2009|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis is crack #1 in the photo, with a tree growing out of it halfway up. Scramble up the gully a short ways and climb the first crack on your left. The rock is high quality, but since the Castle doesn't get too much traffic, there may be some gardening in the crack. It is fingers and thin hands, with abundant face holds.
Perhaps this crack and others on the Garrison were climbed decades ago, but I thought I'd put it on the map as a VFA (virtual FA). We climbed it in the late '80s/early '90s. If anyone has conflicting information, please let me know.
LocationQuite a few folks I think were referring to this formation on the lower right side of the Castle as the Garrison, so I'll continue to use that designation.
Descend to the south down the mountaineer's gully.