This route starts from the low point of rock, South of The Gutter
and the BIG, old growth, pine tree. Follow a smooth arete straight up to an overhang with an incipient finger crack. This involves runout 5.7 slab and some 5.8 moves through the headwall on good finger locks. Getting started on the steeper rock of the headwall is probably the crux of the climb but is well-protected by a cam in a horizontal crack. The route crosses SE Arete Second at the base of the headwall and an old ring angle can be seen to the left. Belay above the headwall with a 70 meter rope. Once above the headwall, angle up right past a white bird guano stain and follow the path of least resistance to the summit with one additional belay. Along the way there is an arch that you can climb across for a little novelty.