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South East Arete/Second
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 2.6 from 35
votes
Routes in Second Flatiron
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Compound, The V7 7A+ |
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Direct SE Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dodge Block T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a |
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Dodge Block Variation (Tunnel Route) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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East Overhang T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Free for All T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Freeway T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c |
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Freezeway T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X |
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Gutter High, The V4 6B |
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Gutter, The V7 7A+ |
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I Bleed T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Koyannislotsqi V3-4 6A+ |
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North Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Overlooked Overhang T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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South East Arete/Second T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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South Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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South Sneak T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Southeast Overhang T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b C2 |
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Storm Drain V-easy 3 |
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West Face [2nd Flatiron] T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Yarbles, The V6-7 7A+ |
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| Type: | Trad, 4 pitches |
| FA: | Layton Kor |
| Page Views: | 8,309 total · 33/month |
| Shared By: | Warren Teissier on Apr 3, 2002 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Description
This is a great classic route. Its first ascent was done solo by Layton Kor and is fairly typical Kor material (read burly).
Hike to the base of the Second Flatiron, and then scramble Southwest (up and left) for some 200 yards. Eventually the huge overhang will come into view as well a slab underneath it.
P1. Climb the slab, staying close to its South side, to a point just below and left of the overhang and some large flakes. This is easy slab climbing for some 140 feet.
P2. Climb up and traverse right towards the flakes. These flakes are described as "spooky looking" by Roach, and trust me, they are. Good pro is lacking for the traverse, but great pro is available to the right of the flake. A pin protects the crux and can be backed up with a great stopper just above it. Crank onto the very exposed flake, and belay some 20 feet above.
P3. Climb up to the South of the overhang, and run the rope up a 5.2, smooth ramp, traversing right eventually to get onto the ridge.
P4. Run up another easy pitch to the top of the South Block.
Descent: scramble North around a large pinnacle to the notch between the pinnacle and the summit block. From there, downclimb West to hiking territory.
Per Ben Hoste: a very enjoyable, optional pitch that adds to this climb has you traverse through the gully to the Pullman Block and then climbing up the side and onto the face of the Pullman Block to the summit of the Second Flatiron.
Hike to the base of the Second Flatiron, and then scramble Southwest (up and left) for some 200 yards. Eventually the huge overhang will come into view as well a slab underneath it.
P1. Climb the slab, staying close to its South side, to a point just below and left of the overhang and some large flakes. This is easy slab climbing for some 140 feet.
P2. Climb up and traverse right towards the flakes. These flakes are described as "spooky looking" by Roach, and trust me, they are. Good pro is lacking for the traverse, but great pro is available to the right of the flake. A pin protects the crux and can be backed up with a great stopper just above it. Crank onto the very exposed flake, and belay some 20 feet above.
P3. Climb up to the South of the overhang, and run the rope up a 5.2, smooth ramp, traversing right eventually to get onto the ridge.
P4. Run up another easy pitch to the top of the South Block.
Descent: scramble North around a large pinnacle to the notch between the pinnacle and the summit block. From there, downclimb West to hiking territory.
Per Ben Hoste: a very enjoyable, optional pitch that adds to this climb has you traverse through the gully to the Pullman Block and then climbing up the side and onto the face of the Pullman Block to the summit of the Second Flatiron.
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