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Routes in Second Flatiron

Compound, The V7 7A+
Direct SE Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dodge Block T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Dodge Block Variation (Tunnel Route) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
East Overhang T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Free for All T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Freeway T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Freezeway T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Gutter, The V7 7A+
I Bleed T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Koyannislotsqi V3-4 6A+
North Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Overlooked Overhang T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
South East Arete/Second T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
South Sneak T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Southeast Overhang T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b C2
West Face [2nd Flatiron] T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Yarbles, The V6-7 7A+
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,689 total · 23/month
Shared By: George Bell on Jul 25, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This route "sneaks" around the large overhang on the South Block (the southern and lower summit of the Second Flatiron). Approach this route by following the trail to the Second Flatiron, then continue up along the left (south) side of the second Flatiron for several hundred yards (past the start of Dodge Block).

Roach calls this route 5.0, but I soloed it immediately after Dodge Block and it felt significantly harder. You have to do careful route finding on this route; perhaps I did not go the easiest way. This route is not in Rossiter's guide.

Start up a big slab which is at the left side of the big overhang, about 150' up. Climb up to the base of the left side of the overhang and belay. Next comes the sneaky crux where you want to bypass the overhang to the left. Climb up a smooth trough around the overhang, eventually passing (or belaying at) two bolts. This is not the slot immediately left of the overhang (harder than 5.2), but lies 10+' left of this. This section feels exposed because it is smooth and the wall steepens below you to the west.

Continue scrambling up an easy slab just right of a huge pine tree. At this point you can easily scramble off to the west. To continue to the summit, you must diagonal up and right at some point to join the south ridge. Exactly the easiest place to do this is not obvious. Once on the South Ridge, romp up easily to the summit, passing right over a cool arch (this arch is visible from Chataqua if you know where to look).

Scramble easily off the summit of the South Block by heading north and then west, or you can continue to the main summit (Pullman Car) at 5.6.

Protection

Standard Flatiron rack.

Photos

Long Ranger
Boulder, Colorado
 
Long Ranger   Boulder, Colorado
 
Quite an exhilarating route, what with the amount of exposure to the South. I took some variation of this that worked out fine. At the old bolts, I backtracked just a few feet down and pulled over the dihedral to another ramp system for a little while and maybe did something similar once (or twice?) again, until I was on top of the South Block. Passed the arch, which was cool. Never got to the tree, or the, "broken area", as Roach calls it - everything was SOLID! Save to say though, this was not Class 4. Pretty steep in places, but the holds were there, for the most part. Nov 7, 2016
Brian C.
Longmont, CO
  5.1
Brian C.   Longmont, CO
  5.1
Pretty funny, Roach calls this 4th class. Really fun though.

EDIT: came back and did this ropes this time. From a high belay before the SE Arete junction you can make the tree to belay in a full 60m. Zero rope to spare. Only gear on entire pitch was the old bolts. Best to solo this one. Very fine route. Dec 10, 2014
Julian Smith
Colorado Springs, CO
Julian Smith   Colorado Springs, CO
Guess a lot of us have been suckered into soloing this thing. No one mentions this route as a good alternative to climb after backing off the South Arete, but it works OK. Never did see any of the fixed gear mentioned above. Enjoy. Oct 12, 2003
I soloed this route also and found it to be quite scary. Maybe 5.5 or 5.6 would be a better rating. Feb 17, 2003
XOG
XOG  
I decided not to do onsight flatiron solos after doing this climb - I got up in the smooth polished section and thought I would have given this climb F5 instead of F3 because of the polished nature of the rock. Usually Roach's ratings are right on, but not always! Feb 16, 2003
George is very right on this one.

It is way harder and exposed than Dodge Block. In addition to the crux when one bypasses the overhang, there is a 50 ft section right after that is sustained, very polished and not very featured. We soloed this route and frankly found very little in the ways of protection. There are some old pins and a couple of old bolts for a belay but not much more than this.

I would give this route and S rating.

It is way cool though.

WT Jun 19, 2002