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|Shared By:||Pinklebear on Oct 29, 2001|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
The approach involves a fair bit of scrambling. The safest approach is from the Gutter, which sits at the bottom left (southeast) end of the Second under the huge roof. Scramble up and north from the Gutter and drop over a notch into the big gully. Cross the gully on a climber's trail and scramble up a ramp to reach the base of the wall. The Compound is actually the overhanging backside of the 3rd class rib for the standard East Face route, and can be approached via that route as well (5.0 solo). It sits directly under the Boxcar or Pullman Car, the large, colorful overhang on the right (north) side of the Second's upper reaches.
Begin low and right in a sit-start in a little pit filled with raspberry bushes. Continue left along the colorful wall, staying off the jugs up and over the lip. The last 50 feet of the traverse, where it overhangs radically, are the crux.
I've heard this called V7 on the bouldering scale and 13a on the route scale.