Type: Boulder
FA: Paul Glover, John Dunne
Page Views: 4,431 total · 21/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Oct 25, 2001 with improvements by Justin S
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

The Gutter is a fine alternative to the Ghetto during the seasonal raptor closure which runs from February 1 through July 31 each year. While not as big or inspiring a bouldering slot, it's a handy place to get a pump, and can be combined with the Satellite Boulders, the Yarbles or the Compound to yield a nice circuit.The Gutter sits directly below and east of the large overhang on the very left (south) side of the Second Flatiron. Approach via the Third Flatiron trail, but once at the Satellite Boulders (BBC in particular) cut right into the trees and follow the gully up to the base of the Second Flatiron. The Gutter will be on your right. It is a dark, left-diagonalling slot (what else?) with tons of chalk on the lip holds. Approach time: 20-25 minutes.The traverse can be done many different ways, the easiest being to stay more or less on the lip, the hardest being to say more or less as low as possible through the beginning and middle. You'll encounter some very cool holds along this 90 feet of climbing: huecos, iron-rock flakes, tiny pockets and the ubiquituous Flatirons crimpers.The Gutter is good in the afternoons during the hotter months but perfectly viable mid-day during the winter due to its slightly southerly exposure and rock slab landing, which is quick to melt out after a snowstorm.

Beta for the V7 version per Eric N's comments:1st third //V7 and V8: two thin cracks split the edge of the lower lip at about 10 and 15 feet from the starting hold. Option 1: at the second crack, move left into the cave. Climb good crimps and a sloping rail inside the cave all the way to the gap. Option 2: move left at the first crack to add a couple of V5 moves before joining Option 1. This version is harder but not as obvious. It does not increase the overall grade. 2nd third//V7: follow the lip as for the V4, but move left a few feet lower. Use a crimpy rail, a crimpy ear, and a crimpy V before rejoining the V4 on better holds.

V8: climb under the V7, avoiding the crimpy rail, ear and V and utilizing several small crimps, holds inside the cave, and a well-polished sloper that serves as the foothold for the V4 crux. From the sloper (under the crimpy V and ear of the V7), climb or dyno into the cave, and continue to the gap on the huecos. This path often does not have chalk. Final third//V7 and V8: stay low and use the crimps on the bulge for your hands or heelhooks. Reach the large hueco, and try to fit your body inside. Option 1: Pulling out of the large hueco, use holds below the lip for another ten feet or so, then surf the lip to the end and mantel. This is slightly easier but more sensible than option 2. Option 2: stay low all the way to the tree. There are holds. The crux will be avoiding the dab, since your butt will be about two inches off the ground.

Protection

Since this is a slot a crash pad won't do you much good. Wear a thick t-shirt so you don't raspberry your back if you crater.

Photos