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Routes in Second Flatiron

Compound, The V7 7A+
Direct SE Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dodge Block T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Dodge Block Variation (Tunnel Route) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
East Overhang T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Free for All T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Freeway T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Freezeway T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Gutter, The V7 7A+
I Bleed T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Koyannislotsqi V3-4 6A+
North Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Overlooked Overhang T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
South East Arete/Second T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
South Sneak T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Southeast Overhang T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b C2
West Face [2nd Flatiron] T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Yarbles, The V6-7 7A+
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Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 8,785 total · 42/month
Shared By: Mike Sofranko on Sep 23, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

Yet another fine easy route on the Second Flatiron...

From the lowpoint of the the Second Flatiron (where the trail touches the base) head up through the trees to the south for a couple hundred feet. If the huge roof of the South Block is above you, you've gone just a little too far. Start on a rib/slab just below and to the right of the huge roof. This rib will have a 10 foot step visible about a ropelength up.

Climb the south edge of the rib up to the step. Climb through the steep step via the easiest looking path. Soon you will be on a small summit. Step down to the west. The South Block will be looming above you to the south. Just to the north of the block is a water polished gully. Just to the right of the gully is a narrow rib. Climb the rib for a couple ropelengths until you can work over to the obvious tree below the steep east face of the Pullman Car.

Now it's time to dodge the block. From the level of the tree, head right into gully, and engage the south facing wall. It looks steep, but if the easiest way is found it isn't difficult. From the top of this wall, continue up the slab to the same walkoff for the Freeway route.

Protection

Flatiron SR

Photos

Picking the correct spot for the traverse to "dodge" the block is the crux of this climb. If you traverse at the level of the tree, as described above, the traverse will be almost trivial. If you continue up towards the block and traverse just below it, the traverse will become considerably spicier (if you are soloing that is)

There are at least two alternatives once you cross the gully. The first one is the original route, it is the easiest one too. It climbs a weakness on the wall that looks steep but quite easy, it is slightly above the tree traverse. This puts you back on the East face for an easy scramble to the top.

The second option follows a ramp to the right of the gully you just traversed. Start as if for option one but instead of climbing to the East face head West on a narrow, polished and exposed ramp that passes slightly under an overhang and afterwards jons the East face. A spicier option indeed. Jun 19, 2002
The 5.1 occurs in the first 50 feet the rest is Class 4. Not as good as Freeway, and if you drag a friend and a rope, you'll have wasted a climbing day. Jun 12, 2004
What a blast, I followed Roach's description and it was right on. May 22, 2010
Long Ranger
Boulder, CO
 
Long Ranger   Boulder, CO
 
Although routes on the Flatirons are pretty "Choose Your Adventure", I think Dodge Block does not share the same walk off as Freeway but instead puts you in a gully just west and up from where you walk off on Freeway. One side of the gully you exit in Dodge Block is the Pullman Car. Feb 14, 2015
Mark Roth
Boulder
 
Mark Roth   Boulder
 
I followed Roach's description. I don't think I exited right at the right place. Sure seemed harder than 5.0. The kids up top throwing rocks down at me might have made it seem harder than it was. I did end up at the same walk off as Freeway. If you go up through the tunnel variation, it won't be the same. Overall, it wasn't as clean and fun as Freeway. Aug 9, 2015
Long Ranger
Boulder, CO
 
Long Ranger   Boulder, CO
 
There's a very large flake on the L side of the, "10 foot step " on the Second Flatironette. It looks like one could use it to get on top of the step, but it's a little sketch as it will move if you touch it. I lamely went to the L of the step, and traversed over a bit.

It's actually pretty weird, I think I've started on Freeway before and traversed left after a while and downclimbed the "wall" you're supposed to climb up looking for this route. Finding nothing appealing, I just climbed back up, and got back on Freeway.

I think that's the route I may try sooner - start on Freeway, traverse left after a while, downclimb the, "wall" to dodge the block, and then climb up the chimney to do Free For All. That lets you start at the very base of the formation, you avoid that loose flake and the dirty gully to the Second Flatironette, and you summit the formation to boot. Oct 1, 2015
Travis Briles
Boulder, CO
 
Travis Briles   Boulder, CO
 
Does anyone know how the tunnel near the top fits in to this route? Is this actually part of the standard 5.0 route? This part felt a little spicy without a rope.... Oct 16, 2016
David Hous
Boulder, Colorado
  5.1
David Hous   Boulder, Colorado
  5.1
Travis, the tunnel is listed as the next variation to the right on this website. Instead of going straight up the steep headwall (5.6) at the top of the gully below the tunnel, Dodge Block crosses right across the slab, and you go up the steep but very easy right wall of the gully. Then head up the slab parallel to the gully, and top out at the same place as the top of Freeway. Nov 22, 2016
Nick Thomas
Fargo, ND
Nick Thomas   Fargo, ND
Today we dodged the block to the left and followed a water polished gully up to some steep blocks and through a tunnel-y chimney (not the tunnel variation). Does anyone know if this is a known variation or route? Jul 17, 2017

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