Avg: 3.3 from 12 votes
|Type:||Trad, 30 ft|
|FA:||Darren Smith (2014)|
|Page Views:||4,334 total · 70/month|
|Shared By:||Darren Smith on Jun 3, 2015|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
As far as I know, this route was unclimbed until 2014, most likely being overlooked due to its inconspicuousness and there being no safe way to lead it.
Start with right hand under cling/sidepull in the 45 degree slightly exposed flake. Either get your left foot high on a sloper or gain a high good crimp hidden in a ledge with your left hand. Then grab the not-quite-a-jug horn, move left, and gain a tiny ledge with your left hand allowing you to balance and bring your left foot way over. This feels exposed, and you're now doing the splits. From here if you are tall, you can reach an awesome jug pocket on the top the Pullman Car, but it is hidden, you will have to feel around for it and reach really far. If you can't find it or aren't tall enough, this move may be a little harder, but it is certainly still possible. From here, it is about 150 feet of easy climbing to the summit.
Overall, the route isn't difficult if you know the beta, but I would recommend practicing it on top rope first if you have any doubts (rappel or downclimb from the true summit, and build anchor at top of the route), a fall could result in a >40 foot free fall onto the 45 degree Flatiron. Many holds are reachy and hidden.