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Direct SE Arete

5.8, Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 3 pitches,  Avg: 0 from 0 votes
FA: unknown
Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > North > Second Flatiron
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Description

This route starts from the low point of rock, South of The Gutter and the BIG, old growth, pine tree. Follow a smooth arete straight up to an overhang with an incipient finger crack. This involves runout 5.7 slab and some 5.8 moves through the headwall on good finger locks. Getting started on the steeper rock of the headwall is probably the crux of the climb but is well-protected by a cam in a horizontal crack. The route crosses SE Arete Second at the base of the headwall and an old ring angle can be seen to the left. Belay above the headwall with a 70 meter rope. Once above the headwall, angle up right past a white bird guano stain and follow the path of least resistance to the summit with one additional belay. Along the way there is an arch that you can climb across for a little novelty.

Location

Location; South East ridge of the Second Flatiron.
Start at the low point of rock about 40 feet South of a big, old growth, pine tree near The Gutter.
Descend by down climbing to the West.

Protection

Typical Flatiron rack. One set of cams, a set of stoppers and long slings.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Mike crossing the arch on the SE Arete of the Second Flatiron.
[Hide Photo] Mike crossing the arch on the SE Arete of the Second Flatiron.
Rich climbing past the white bird guano above the headwall.
[Hide Photo] Rich climbing past the white bird guano above the headwall.
Ralph Burns and Rich Perch on the first pitch of the Direct SE Arete of the Second Flatiron.
[Hide Photo] Ralph Burns and Rich Perch on the first pitch of the Direct SE Arete of the Second Flatiron.
Ralph pulling the headwall on the SE Arete of the Second Flatiron.
[Hide Photo] Ralph pulling the headwall on the SE Arete of the Second Flatiron.
Ralph Burns and Rich Perch starting the Direct SE Arete of the Second Flatiron.  Starting from the low point left of The Gutter.
[Hide Photo] Ralph Burns and Rich Perch starting the Direct SE Arete of the Second Flatiron. Starting from the low point left of The Gutter.