Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 118 total · 1/month
Shared By: Aaron Hobson on Jan 3, 2009
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details

Description

Mostly face climbing up this left-slanting crack/ramp. The start is made more difficult and tenuous by the lichen and a few rotten holds. These can be avoided by stuffing yourself into the crack, but where's the grace in that?

Location

Located on the far west end of the Shady Side, where two large left-leaning crack systems are. This is the left-hand one. The right-hand one is Proving Ground.

Protection

A small rack of various sizes. Large cams are useful for making quick and easy placements in the large crack, but smaller placements can be found as well. Half-way up a hanger-less 1/4" bolt can be found. A 3/8" bolt and a piton with a rappel ring can be found at the top.

Photos

Aaron Hobson
Clinton, TN
  5.5
Aaron Hobson   Clinton, TN
  5.5
I pulled out two hanger-less 1/4" bolts last weekend. One on each side of the summit ridge. It didn't make sense to me to put new bolts on both sides, so instead I put one new bolt at a higher placement which can be used for either side. This along with the piton should provide an adequate top-rope anchor. For descending, you may still be required to leave a sling/biner but the walk-off descent is pretty straightforward. Feb 26, 2009
Forrest Wilcox
Las Cruces, NM
 
Forrest Wilcox   Las Cruces, NM
 
my first trad solo lead, placing stoppers was not working at all but there were good cam placements Mar 26, 2012