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Routes in Shady Side

A - Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
B - Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Back-Scratcher T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Banana Splits T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Battle of the Bulges T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bolted Chimney T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Depth Charge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flea Protein V1 5 PG13
GRE TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kestrel T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lichen Fun Slide - Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lichen Fun Slide - Right T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Meanderthon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Monoculture TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Nothing to prove T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Pebble Steps T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Peregrine TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Proving Ground T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rotten Reality T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Swainson TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
This is not a test T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Torpedo T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Uncle Wriggly T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Width of Reason T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 82 total, 1/month
Shared By: Aaron Hobson on Jan 3, 2009
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details

Description

Mostly face climbing up this left-slanting crack/ramp. The start is made more difficult and tenuous by the lichen and a few rotten holds. These can be avoided by stuffing yourself into the crack, but where's the grace in that?

Location

Located on the far west end of the Shady Side, where two large left-leaning crack systems are. This is the left-hand one. The right-hand one is Proving Ground.

Protection

A small rack of various sizes. Large cams are useful for making quick and easy placements in the large crack, but smaller placements can be found as well. Half-way up a hanger-less 1/4" bolt can be found. A 3/8" bolt and a piton with a rappel ring can be found at the top.

Photos

Forrest Wilcox
Las Cruces, NM
 
Forrest Wilcox   Las Cruces, NM
 
my first trad solo lead, placing stoppers was not working at all but there were good cam placements Mar 26, 2012
Aaron Hobson
Clinton, TN
 
Aaron Hobson   Clinton, TN  
 
I pulled out two hanger-less 1/4" bolts last weekend. One on each side of the summit ridge. It didn't make sense to me to put new bolts on both sides, so instead I put one new bolt at a higher placement which can be used for either side. This along with the piton should provide an adequate top-rope anchor. For descending, you may still be required to leave a sling/biner but the walk-off descent is pretty straightforward. Feb 26, 2009