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Routes in Shady Side

A - Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
B - Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Back-Scratcher T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Banana Splits T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Battle of the Bulges T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bolted Chimney T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Depth Charge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flea Protein V1 5 PG13
GRE TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kestrel T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lichen Fun Slide - Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lichen Fun Slide - Right T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Meanderthon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Monoculture TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Nothing to prove T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Pebble Steps T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Peregrine TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Proving Ground T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rotten Reality T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Swainson TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
This is not a test T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Torpedo T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Uncle Wriggly T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Width of Reason T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 982 total, 7/month
Shared By: Aaron Hobson on Jan 19, 2006
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details

Description

This climb is located 100' east of the Bolted Chimney route. It climbs a discontinuous crack system up a steep face. The crux is encountered quickly and finding the hidden face holds helps greatly.

Protection

Small gear. Bolt anchors with chain link or cold-shunts.

Photos

Tony Grenko
Las Cruces, NM
Tony Grenko   Las Cruces, NM
I'm glad to see what a nice Job Aron did outlining La Cueva here. Many of the routes that were named were put up in the 70s and 80s and had/have other names. But that is really of little consequence. THe rating and the guide are helpful; and it all seems very accurate. Also, Aron and friends tapped out lines that, for whatever reason, people had never bothered to climb. You guys seem to have added much to the area. I will add a post with old names and first accent claims later. Among them Wes Thompson and I put up "meanderfest"; and I first lead "this is not a test" in 1986. But the names you guys have here work just as well. The first half of "meanderfest"; up to the ledge, was put of by Dick Ingram in robrins boots back in the 60s. It is called "Ahab."

The front of La Cueva has some good lines as well. We will take a pic this weekend and add them to Mountain project for folks to enjoy as well.

Thanks,
tony grenko Sep 3, 2014
cuclimbing
Las Cruces
 
cuclimbing   Las Cruces
 
I think a 5.10 is a good rating. What a fun route! And those top bolts are a mystery to me too...unless someone can find a route up that mess right below them without taking out your belayer with rock. Dec 4, 2008
Aaron Hobson
Clinton, TN
 
Aaron Hobson   Clinton, TN  
 
Climbed this route a second time and it felt much easier. knowing the beta for gear and holds can save a lot of effort. I'm curious if anyone feels it should be down-graded? On my second ascent, I felt this route could be rated a 5.9+, but without beta it can be much harder. May 28, 2006
Aaron Hobson
Clinton, TN
 
Aaron Hobson   Clinton, TN  
 
Additional bolt anchors are located at the top of the upper chimney section on the left side. There is also a two bolt anchor at the very top of the left hand tower, although what these anchors are used for is a mystery to me. Feb 2, 2006