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Routes in Shady Side

A - Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
B - Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Back-Scratcher T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Banana Splits T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Battle of the Bulges T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bolted Chimney T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Depth Charge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flea Protein V1 5 PG13
GRE TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kestrel T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lichen Fun Slide - Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lichen Fun Slide - Right T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Meanderthon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Monoculture TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Nothing to prove T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Pebble Steps T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Peregrine TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Proving Ground T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rotten Reality T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Swainson TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
This is not a test T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Torpedo T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Uncle Wriggly T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Width of Reason T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Type: TR, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 64 total, 1/month
Shared By: Aaron Hobson on Jan 3, 2009
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details

Description

This vertical seam offers some interesting climbing for all of 30 feet. It climbs a thin seam, starting with lay-back moves, transitioning to stemming on rotten rock, and finally a few sharp finger jams to finish.

Location

Located on the far west end of the shady side, 20 ft to the left of Kestrel. the seam is just to the left of a small juniper.

Protection

Setting a top-rope for the route is not straight-forward. The top of the route can be reached by scrambling in from the west, and there is a nice ledge with a tiny juniper right at the top of the route. However, there aren't many protectable features. I use a #5 camelot way back on the ledge, and a pair of tricams in pockets on the upper face. I then needed two 15 ft cordelettes and an additional 10 ft of webbing to get the top-rope biner to be close to the edge.

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Aaron Hobson
Clinton, TN
 
Aaron Hobson   Clinton, TN  
 
This route is in a small alcove. The sloping ramp just to the left of the route is an easy climb (~5.2) and gains a small ledge which is used by the OMTRS as one end of a Tyrolean. Jan 3, 2009