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Routes in Shady Side

A - Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
B - Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Back-Scratcher T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Banana Splits T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Battle of the Bulges T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bolted Chimney T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Depth Charge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flea Protein V1 5 PG13
GRE TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kestrel T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lichen Fun Slide - Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lichen Fun Slide - Right T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Meanderthon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Monoculture TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Nothing to prove T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Pebble Steps T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Peregrine TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Proving Ground T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rotten Reality T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Swainson TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
This is not a test T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Torpedo T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Uncle Wriggly T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Width of Reason T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Type: TR, 25 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 72 total, 1/month
Shared By: Aaron Hobson on Apr 24, 2006
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details

Description

This short top-rope is a good quick climb to finish off your afternoon at Cueva. The anchors are easily accessible and it has a great view over the Rio Grande Valley. That said, it's not a spectacular climb. At first glance, one notices many signs that holds have broken off. In actuality, the holds are all solid and I don't think more rock will be torn off unless you start to meander from the route.

The climb takes a vertical line up a short face, utilizing a few hidden,deep, and narrow pockets.

Location

Find this climb on the north side of the western-most spit of rock at Cueva. The climb isn't obvious from the ground; there are two climbable crack systems on this wall, and Swainson is to the west of both of these. The best way to find the climb is to scramble up to the anchors. Reaching the anchor requires easy 5th class scrambling along the easy western-most slabs.

Protection

The top-rope anchor for this route consists of two 3/8" bolts. They are set back 10 feet from the sloping lip so bring some webbing to extend the anchor.

Photos

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Aaron Hobson
Clinton, TN
 
Aaron Hobson   Clinton, TN  
 
Both of the 1/4" bolts were replaced last weekend. Feb 26, 2009
Aaron Hobson
Clinton, TN
 
Aaron Hobson   Clinton, TN  
 
Almost three years after I first climbed this route, I was back there today with the OMTRS. A couple people jumped on our top-rope and the consensus was that the crux is the lower section. There are some balancy moves on top of the first bulge/hold which spit most people off. Also of note was that we were able to back-up the bolts using pink and brown tricams about 20 ft further back from the bolts. Jan 3, 2009