Type: Trad, TR, 90 ft
FA: FA late 1950s 5.6 A3 Harry Davis & J. Mack Adams, FFA Mark Motes & Karl Kiser, spring 1980
Page Views: 253 total · 2/month
Shared By: cuclimbing on Mar 24, 2008 with updates from Karl R. Kiser
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Access Issue: Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details

Description

You can access the top rope anchors from Rotten Reality or you can free climb a 4th class Lichen face around the north corner and descend a shaky 15 feet to the crack. The bolts and hangers are old and rusty, I use them but don't trust them....Bad combo. I would back it up with some pro. Hopefully, this summer I can get some good bolts in for everyone. There is quite a bit of rope drag from the top rope, especially when you get close to the overhang. starting the route and the overhang are the 2 crux in the climb. with a 60m rope the climber and belayer have to get a boost to be roped in. Awesome route with some nice hand and finger jams. Get's mellow towards the end, nice way to in the climb and a fun free rappel back down!

Location

West of Rotten Reality in an area my brother and I have dubbed "The Basin". You can't miss this huge split up the rock. You can access it from the north trail, or bushwack a bit from the southern la cueva trail under a huge boulder. Awesome place to climb in summer, nice and cool.

Protection

2 old bolts are at the top of the route. about 20ft below, right above the overhand, is another old bolt. A good place to set an aider. right below the overhang above "the step" is a new bolt. On the step is an old piton. about 20-30 ft up is a jammed tri-cam, an old piton used to be right by it but i broke it in a fall. a good set of cams can easily do the trick. on the overhang, i could barely fit in a 0 cam and i wouldnt trust the rock in a fall.

Photos

Karl R. Kiser
  5.10-
Karl R. Kiser  
  5.10-
This climb had two anchors in the old days. One on the ledge below the wide crack and one at the top. The bolts are more than 30 years old and should be replaced. We called this 5.9 in the old days (perhaps better rated day 10 now). The protection is reasonable. Apr 2, 2008
cuclimbing
Las Cruces
  5.9+
cuclimbing   Las Cruces
  5.9+
Trad is pretty safe. Like you said, those hangers are old. If the consensus is 5.9, I'll change it. Happy climbing! Apr 6, 2008
Matt Baker
Portland, OR
Matt Baker   Portland, OR
Climbed this climb today. Was pretty fun, rock quality was not great but to be expected at La Cueva. I would not trust those anchor bolts at all, they are old 1/4 inchers and someone has driven in a nail (back-up?) into the rock next to them. I was able to set up a good anchor in a crack way back. Dec 27, 2011
Jorge Achata
Lima, Peru
 
Jorge Achata   Lima, Peru
 
Did this route with Steve Roach yesterday, it was a lot of fun. Steve led it into the offwidth and chimney his way up out to the anchors. The moves into the crack can be protected with a couple large cams (#5-6), though large hexes or big bros would fair better. There's a placement for a medium stopper (#6?) inside the crack too, about half way up. We think this variation is more of a 5.10b.

The anchors are still the original 1/4 inch spinners, we left slings and a fixed stopper to back them up. The bolts need to be replaced, so don't remove the stopper. Jul 21, 2013
Jorge Achata
Lima, Peru
 
Jorge Achata   Lima, Peru
 
We have two brand new bolts for anchors on this route now. Thanks Steve! Oct 21, 2013
Karl R. Kiser
  5.10-
Karl R. Kiser  
  5.10-
FFA Mark Motes & Karl Kiser, spring 1980. Jun 12, 2015