Type: Trad, TR, 90 ft
FA: FA late 1950s 5.6 A3 Harry Davis & J. Mack Adams, FFA Mark Motes & Karl Kiser, spring 1980
Page Views: 501 total · 3/month
Shared By: cuclimbing on Mar 24, 2008 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


4 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Power drilling is prohibited in the Organ Mountains Wilderness. Details
Access Issue: COVID-19 New Mexico State Requirements Details

Description

You can access the top rope anchors from Rotten Reality or you can free climb a 4th class Lichen face around the north corner and descend a shaky 15 feet to the crack. The bolts and hangers are old and rusty, I use them but don't trust them....Bad combo. I would back it up with some pro. Hopefully, this summer I can get some good bolts in for everyone. There is quite a bit of rope drag from the top rope, especially when you get close to the overhang. starting the route and the overhang are the 2 crux in the climb. with a 60m rope the climber and belayer have to get a boost to be roped in. Awesome route with some nice hand and finger jams. Get's mellow towards the end, nice way to in the climb and a fun free rappel back down!

Location

West of Rotten Reality in an area my brother and I have dubbed "The Basin". You can't miss this huge split up the rock. You can access it from the north trail, or bushwack a bit from the southern la cueva trail under a huge boulder. Awesome place to climb in summer, nice and cool.

Protection

2 old bolts are at the top of the route. about 20ft below, right above the overhand, is another old bolt. A good place to set an aider. right below the overhang above "the step" is a new bolt. On the step is an old piton. about 20-30 ft up is a jammed tri-cam, an old piton used to be right by it but i broke it in a fall. a good set of cams can easily do the trick. on the overhang, i could barely fit in a 0 cam and i wouldnt trust the rock in a fall.

Photos