Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: FA 16 Oct. 1969 5.5 A3 Leland Davis & Don Delorenzo, FFA Edmund Ward
Page Views: 584 total · 4/month
Shared By: Aaron Hobson on Apr 29, 2006 with updates from Karl R. Kiser
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Access Issue: Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details

Description

This steep diagonal crack provides lots of interesting climbing; Off-width technique, finger-to-fist size jams, big face holds and awkward rest stances make it an interesting and committing lead. Midway up is a bolt, which is where most people end the climb. The upper section is "grunty".

Location

At the far eastern end of La Cueva is a grotto area. Rotten Reality is the obvious right tending crack.

Protection

2 3/8" bolts protect up to the crack. The crack has good gear placements if you hunt for them, but there is also a lot of flaring and crumbly rock which should be avoided. The mid-point bolt is a 3/8" and there are two hangerless 1/4" bolts here as well. From the top, one can walk north and do a ~100' rappel from the route to the right called "Banana Splits".

Photos

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