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Routes in Shady Side

A - Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
B - Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Back-Scratcher T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Banana Splits T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Battle of the Bulges T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bolted Chimney T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Depth Charge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flea Protein V1 5 PG13
GRE TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kestrel T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lichen Fun Slide - Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lichen Fun Slide - Right T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Meanderthon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Monoculture TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Nothing to prove T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Pebble Steps T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Peregrine TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Proving Ground T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rotten Reality T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Swainson TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
This is not a test T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Torpedo T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Uncle Wriggly T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Width of Reason T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 418 total · 4/month
Shared By: Aaron Hobson on Jan 3, 2009
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Access Issue: Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details

Description [Edit]

This left-sloping crack system is harder than it looks without being strenuous for the beginner. The crack is gained by face-climbing up 10 ft. Some lichen is on this start, especially if you are further left. The rock is also weaker to the left. Once the crack is gained, gear can be placed from a good rest-stance. The rest of the climbing is gentle stepping up the ramp, relying on the wide crack for protection, and keeping your balance against the head-wall which seems to threaten to push you out. the route tops out at low break in the summit ridge.

A variation finish can be had by climbing an airy face on the right, just 10 ft below the regular top-out. This gains an additional 20 ft of climbing over the featured face. However, there is not good protection on this finish variation. It does lead to a nice little summit though.

Location [Edit]

Located on the far west end of the Shady Side, this is one of the first routes that is passed when hiking in. It starts behind a small juniper tree about 60 ft to the east of Peregrine. There is no fixed gear at the top. There a couple options for a descent:
1) Have your belayer lower you off the back-side. A 60m rope should reach the ground on the other side, and you can hike back around easy enough.
2) Scramble east over the summit block. This is exposed but not hard. On the other side is a piton-rappel at the top of Nothing to prove. If you'd prefer not to use this rappel, you can continue scrambling east along the exposed summit knife-edge until an easy down-climb on the left can be found. The down climb is low-fifth.
3) Leave some gear.

Protection [Edit]

A small rack of various sizes. Large pieces are especially easy to place in the wide crack, but with more patience, smaller protection can be found. Build an anchor with gear.

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