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Routes in Shady Side

A - Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
B - Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Back-Scratcher T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Banana Splits T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Battle of the Bulges T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bolted Chimney T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Depth Charge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flea Protein V1 5 PG13
GRE TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kestrel T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lichen Fun Slide - Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lichen Fun Slide - Right T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Meanderthon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Monoculture TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Nothing to prove T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Pebble Steps T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Peregrine TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Proving Ground T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rotten Reality T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Swainson TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
This is not a test T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Torpedo T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Uncle Wriggly T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Width of Reason T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 56 total, 0/month
Shared By: Aaron Hobson on Apr 28, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details

Description

Charge into the depths of the squeeze chimney. Not as hard as it looks, although I find it difficult to rate squeeze chimneys. The crux is getting off the ground and into the squeeze. Some parts of the squeeze are smooth and dirty, others are gritty. there are a few great face holds in the squeeze but for the most part you will be inching your way upwards and trying to decide where you will least likely get stuck. There are two possible exits from the squeeze: 1) if you're small enough squeeze you're way under the giant chockstone at the top. 2) At the narrowest constriction about 5 ft below the giant chockstone, inch your way to the outside of the chimney. As the chimney widens, there are more foot holds.

Location

Hike almost all the way to the east end of the Shady Side and keep an eye out for a short, steep chimney. The route is the second chimney to the right of Monoculture.

Protection

A few big pieces are good to have, but you'll also be able to place some small gear, especially if you work your way in deep. I placed a yellow alien immediately after gaining the squeeze, and then a #4 forged friend before working my way to the outside of the chimney (exit strategy #2 above). there is a decent placement for a blue TCU before you gain the large chockstone. From here you can traverse to the right to a lone bolt and lower off (you'll have to leave something on the bolt), or you can continue up to the oak trees and rappel from them.

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