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Routes in Shady Side

A - Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
B - Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Back-Scratcher T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Banana Splits T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Battle of the Bulges T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bolted Chimney T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Depth Charge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flea Protein V1 5 PG13
GRE TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kestrel T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lichen Fun Slide - Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lichen Fun Slide - Right T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Meanderthon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Monoculture TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Nothing to prove T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Pebble Steps T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Peregrine TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Proving Ground T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rotten Reality T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Swainson TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
This is not a test T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Torpedo T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Uncle Wriggly T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Width of Reason T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
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Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 772 total · 5/month
Shared By: Aaron Hobson on May 24, 2006
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Access Issue: Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details

Description [Edit]

The right-side corner system of the "Lichen Fun Slide" which continues all the way to the top in one glorious pitch. The start is on a tricky finger-crack, which peters out quickly to become 10m of face climbing on good licheny holds, passing an attractive bulge on the right. By-passing the bulge entirely, continue up into a clean corner gaining a spacious ledge. Stick to the right side of the ledge and continue up, surmounting the final headwall with awkward moves on good, clean rock. After these awkward moves you will be on a nice shadowy ledge, where the side-walls narrow down to form a tunnel-like chute. Chimney up and climb left to reach the anchors of Meanderthon, or follow the tunnel to reach the summit ridge.

Most of the climbing on this route is on clean rock due to it being the natural drain path. the section with the most lichen also happens to be the easiest. a good variety of moves, and exposure make this a worthwhile and exciting climb. At the very top where the walls restrict to a chimney, there is an incredible stance where you can stand with one foot on either side and look nearly straight down the entire route. With a little engineering, you can even belay your second from this stance.

Location [Edit]

The Lichen Fun Slide is a narrow 10' wide slab bordered by two corner systems. It is immediately to the right of Meanderthon or east from Width of Reason. It currently is covered with lots of healthy green lichen.

Protection [Edit]

This route protects well, but your options are not varied (a variety of tri-cams will increase your options). Place protection at every possibility, because it is likely to be the only protection for 10-20 ft. The shallow corner past the bulge takes a #1 Camalot (or similar), and a large piece is good for the upper headwall moves. Long runners are a must if you want to avoid serious rope-drag. Use Meanderthon's anchors for the descent.

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