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Routes in Hidden Heavenly Slab

6 Ways From Sunday T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
7th Way, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
All About Volume T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Altered Alter Boy T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Apostate Apsotle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Black Sabbath T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Golden Plates T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Guardian Angel T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Indie Dog Memorial Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lonely Sinner T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mischievous Moroni T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
My God, Your God T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
North of Heaven T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Paradise on Earth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Personal Jihad T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Pudgy Pastor T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Resurrection to Eternal Life T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Son of a Preacher Man T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 450 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Brian Smoot Tyler Phillips Luke Douglas 07'
Page Views: 142 total · 1/month
Shared By: TylerPhillips on Oct 13, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

P1.Find a pin and start on the far left side of the slab. Scramble up to a nice ledge and make a belay (one bolt). Can be combined w/ P2

P2.From the lone bolt make your way up a faint black streak passing a bolt that leads to a small mini roof. Clip 2 more bolts on the way up the featured slab to a nice ledge and a single bolt belay (can be backed up). 5.8+

P3. Traverse straight right across the ledge to the far left black streaks. 5.2

P4. Climb up beautifully featured black streak placing gear and clipping the occasional bolt. From the 2nd bolt make your way right on a ramp/crack to 3 bolts up nice rock. From the last bolt aim up and right climbing over a steep left facing corner with jumble blocks nearby. Belay at 2 bolts. 5.9

P5. Climb up the steep black streak. Fun sport climbing up beautiful rock. 5.11-

Location

This start is on the left side of the slab. (See
The Hidden Heavenly Slab topo. )

If rapping back down 6 Ways From Sunday: from the last anchor (P5) you need to make a angular rap back to the top of P3, 2 ropes required.

Or from the top anchor on 6 Ways From Sunday rap over to North of Heaven top anchor and drop 70m raps.

Protection

Single set of cams to #2 camalot, TCU’s very helpful. QD’s, shoulder slings nice. 2 ropes needed if rapping the line.

Photos

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Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
Boissal .   Small Lake, UT
I never found the single bolt belay on top of P1 but ended up at a set of chains which, based on pictures & the book, should be a bit to the left (2nd rap to get off the base of Specter without a 70m maybe?). I linked into the 2nd pitch and got some juicy rope frag from the pin under the roof. When you're at the bolt above the roof the route head rightm don't get lured to a bolt up and left, that's Personal Jihad. Didn't find the single bolt on top of P2 either... Jul 2, 2018

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