Type: Trad, 450 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Brian Smoot Tyler Phillips Luke Douglas 07'
Page Views: 150 total · 1/month
Shared By: TylerPhillips on Oct 13, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

P1.Find a pin and start on the far left side of the slab. Scramble up to a nice ledge and make a belay (one bolt). Can be combined w/ P2

P2.From the lone bolt make your way up a faint black streak passing a bolt that leads to a small mini roof. Clip 2 more bolts on the way up the featured slab to a nice ledge and a single bolt belay (can be backed up). 5.8+

P3. Traverse straight right across the ledge to the far left black streaks. 5.2

P4. Climb up beautifully featured black streak placing gear and clipping the occasional bolt. From the 2nd bolt make your way right on a ramp/crack to 3 bolts up nice rock. From the last bolt aim up and right climbing over a steep left facing corner with jumble blocks nearby. Belay at 2 bolts. 5.9

P5. Climb up the steep black streak. Fun sport climbing up beautiful rock. 5.11-

Location

This start is on the left side of the slab. (See
The Hidden Heavenly Slab topo. )

If rapping back down 6 Ways From Sunday: from the last anchor (P5) you need to make a angular rap back to the top of P3, 2 ropes required.

Or from the top anchor on 6 Ways From Sunday rap over to North of Heaven top anchor and drop 70m raps.

Protection

Single set of cams to #2 camalot, TCU’s very helpful. QD’s, shoulder slings nice. 2 ropes needed if rapping the line.

Photos

- No Photos -
Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
Boissal .   Small Lake, UT
I never found the single bolt belay on top of P1 but ended up at a set of chains which, based on pictures & the book, should be a bit to the left (2nd rap to get off the base of Specter without a 70m maybe?). I linked into the 2nd pitch and got some juicy rope frag from the pin under the roof. When you're at the bolt above the roof the route head rightm don't get lured to a bolt up and left, that's Personal Jihad. Didn't find the single bolt on top of P2 either... Jul 2, 2018