Type: Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 5 pitches
FA: Brian Smoot Tyler Phillips Luke Douglas 07'
Page Views: 949 total · 5/month
Shared By: Tyler Phillips on Oct 13, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

P1.Find a pin and start on the far left side of the slab. Scramble up to a nice ledge and make a belay (one bolt). Can be combined w/ P2

P2.From the lone bolt make your way up a faint black streak passing a bolt that leads to a small mini roof. Clip 2 more bolts on the way up the featured slab to a nice ledge and a single bolt belay (can be backed up). 5.8+

P3. Traverse straight right across the ledge to the far left black streaks. 5.2

P4. Climb up beautifully featured black streak placing gear and clipping the occasional bolt. From the 2nd bolt make your way right on a ramp/crack to 3 bolts up nice rock. From the last bolt aim up and right climbing over a steep left facing corner with jumble blocks nearby. Belay at 2 bolts. 5.9

P5. Climb up the steep black streak. Fun sport climbing up beautiful rock. 5.11-

Location

This start is on the left side of the slab. (See
The Hidden Heavenly Slab topo. )

If rapping back down 6 Ways From Sunday: from the last anchor (P5) you need to make a angular rap back to the top of P3, 2 ropes required.

Or from the top anchor on 6 Ways From Sunday rap over to North of Heaven top anchor and drop 70m raps.

Protection

Single set of cams to #2 camalot, TCU’s very helpful. QD’s, shoulder slings nice. 2 ropes needed if rapping the line.

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