Type: Trad, 430 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Tyler Phillips & Luke Douglas 07'/08'
Page Views: 2,283 total · 18/month
Shared By: TylerPhillips on Oct 13, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


26 Opinions

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

One of my personal favorites in the canyon.

P1. Start on the far right side beginning up steep roofy terrain. Find a fixed pin, above the pin a large cam gets things started about 15 feet up (easy), from the cam climb up passing 3 bolts to the roof. From here shuffle left and up and over roof using a very cool finger pocket. 5.10+

P2. From chain belay/rap climb up to the left of the small pine growing out of the roof. Once you gain the slab proper climb up nice features passing 2 bolts to a big ledge and common belay/rap w/ 6 Ways From Sunday.5.6
A few all gear variations have been climbed around this pitch all checking in around 5.6/5.7

P3. Use the same start as 6 Ways but after you clip the 2nd bolt climb straight up (instead of traversing on the ramp/crack) placing small TCUÂ’s in horizontals. Aim for the black flake, once you get to the flake clip a bolt above it and make some fun moves to the belay. 5.8+
One of the best slab pitches up here

P4. From belay climb out and left into space. # .75 camalot gets things rolling, from there climb up steep features clipping numerous bolts. From the right facing corner climb up and left out of it onto an exposed slab. Make a "footless" traverse left onto the slab. Launch straight up into the shallow left facing corner and persevere to the chains. 5.11

P5. Climb up behind the big bush clipping a bolt and a pin or two. Steep moves with wild exposer are memorable. Short. 5.10+

Location

On the far right side of the Hidden Heavenly Slab is a steep overhang. The 1st pitch starts up this. Rap route.

(see
The Hidden Heavenly Slab topo. )

This is also the raps down for 6 ways From Sunday

Protection

(1) #4 camalot (2) #1 Metoilus and a rack to fill the in between. Slings nice. 60M rope

Photos

tenesmus  
 
Pitch 1 is pretty fun with lots of finesse. Pitch 3 is a fun slab. Pitch 4 is the goods, with unexpected rests and features you wouldn't expect to link up as well as they do. From start to finish, this pitch is pretty dang cool. I especially liked the exit moves. For some reason this one reminds me of a more sustained, 5.11 Refugees from Reality.

You might be able to use a #3 camalot on Pitch 5 between the first bolt and the piton to reduce some of the sketch. Don't blow the move to the second bolt or the easy finish mantle. This short pitch felt a lot more serious than the others but the moves were cool. Jul 25, 2009
bsmoot  
Pitch 4 is excellent...it's quite improbable, strenuous and thought provoking. Clay, I must have missed all of those "hidden" rests you were talking about! Aug 22, 2009
Mark Shah
  5.10+
Mark Shah  
  5.10+
Really nice route. On the 5th pitch, there is a good spot for a 0.75 cam between the bolt and the piton. We did not find any need for a #4 camalot. Sep 26, 2011
drewford
Wasatch Back, UT
  5.11-
drewford   Wasatch Back, UT
  5.11-
Super fun route. Pitch 4 is a must-do for any granite aficionado. A few observations:
- there are two bolted lines out the roof on P1. The left seemed like the easier option.
- A single rack from .4 cam to a 2 cam would seem adequate. Bring 5 long slings and at least 10 draws.
- The rap from the top of P2 to P1 is longer than a single 60m will allow. I would recommend a single 70m. Jun 30, 2014
We used a single rack from .3 to #3 camalot, mostly on the 2nd and 3rd pitch. Super fun route, except for the 5th pitch which was a little short and not that fun. Aug 26, 2014
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
  5.11b
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
  5.11b
Great route! All pitches are exceptional imo with the stand outs being Pitch 3 and 4. I used a fair amount of medium stoppers, and single set from 00 C3 - #1 Camalot. Did not use #2 or #3 ever. Jul 3, 2017
Prametheus
Jackson's Hooooleeeeeee, WY
  5.11a
Prametheus   Jackson's Hooooleeeeeee, WY
  5.11a
The Granite Guide has P1 as 11a. I went left and it felt like 5.9. Phenomenal climb! Thank you for bolting. Jun 23, 2018
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
 
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
 
Granite Guide calls left line East Coast Insecurities 5/10, we thought more like 10a. 7th way first pitch is 10+. Use the anchors on right for 7th to protect second. 3rd pitch has ledge fall potential, start right and find cam placement to protect getting to first bolt. Jul 9, 2018
John Martin2
Salt Lake City, UT
John Martin2   Salt Lake City, UT
if you got em, a tricam might be better suited for protecting the start of P4. .75 cam fits perfectly but its shallow with an edge and id be worried about snapping the stem if I were to fall before the bolt. Also never used my #4 Aug 6, 2018