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> Hidden Heavenly Slab
The 7th Way
5.11a/b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.2 from 61
votes
Routes in Hidden Heavenly Slab
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6 Ways From Sunday T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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7th Way, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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All About Volume T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Altered Alter Boy T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Apostate Apsotle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Black Sabbath T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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East Coast Insecurities T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Golden Plates T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Guardian Angel T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Indie Dog Memorial Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Lonely Sinner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mischievous Moroni T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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My God, Your God T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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North of Heaven T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Paradise on Earth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Personal Jihad T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Playa Hater T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Pudgy Pastor T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Resurrection to Eternal Life T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Siberian Sinkhole T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Son of a Preacher Man T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 430 ft (130 m), 5 pitches |
| FA: | Tyler Phillips & Luke Douglas 07'/08' |
| Page Views: | 4,111 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | Tyler Phillips on Oct 13, 2008 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
One of my personal favorites in the canyon.
P1. Start on the far right side beginning up steep roofy terrain. Find a fixed pin, above the pin a large cam gets things started about 15 feet up (easy), from the cam climb up passing 3 bolts to the roof. From here shuffle left and up and over roof using a very cool finger pocket. 5.10+
P2. From chain belay/rap climb up to the left of the small pine growing out of the roof. Once you gain the slab proper climb up nice features passing 2 bolts to a big ledge and common belay/rap w/ 6 Ways From Sunday.5.6
A few all gear variations have been climbed around this pitch all checking in around 5.6/5.7
P3. Use the same start as 6 Ways but after you clip the 2nd bolt climb straight up (instead of traversing on the ramp/crack) placing small TCUs in horizontals. Aim for the black flake, once you get to the flake clip a bolt above it and make some fun moves to the belay. 5.8+
One of the best slab pitches up here
P4. From belay climb out and left into space. # .75 camalot gets things rolling, from there climb up steep features clipping numerous bolts. From the right facing corner climb up and left out of it onto an exposed slab. Make a "footless" traverse left onto the slab. Launch straight up into the shallow left facing corner and persevere to the chains. 5.11
P5. Climb up behind the big bush clipping a bolt and a pin or two. Steep moves with wild exposer are memorable. Short. 5.10+
P1. Start on the far right side beginning up steep roofy terrain. Find a fixed pin, above the pin a large cam gets things started about 15 feet up (easy), from the cam climb up passing 3 bolts to the roof. From here shuffle left and up and over roof using a very cool finger pocket. 5.10+
P2. From chain belay/rap climb up to the left of the small pine growing out of the roof. Once you gain the slab proper climb up nice features passing 2 bolts to a big ledge and common belay/rap w/ 6 Ways From Sunday.5.6
A few all gear variations have been climbed around this pitch all checking in around 5.6/5.7
P3. Use the same start as 6 Ways but after you clip the 2nd bolt climb straight up (instead of traversing on the ramp/crack) placing small TCUs in horizontals. Aim for the black flake, once you get to the flake clip a bolt above it and make some fun moves to the belay. 5.8+
One of the best slab pitches up here
P4. From belay climb out and left into space. # .75 camalot gets things rolling, from there climb up steep features clipping numerous bolts. From the right facing corner climb up and left out of it onto an exposed slab. Make a "footless" traverse left onto the slab. Launch straight up into the shallow left facing corner and persevere to the chains. 5.11
P5. Climb up behind the big bush clipping a bolt and a pin or two. Steep moves with wild exposer are memorable. Short. 5.10+
Location
On the far right side of the Hidden Heavenly Slab is a steep overhang. The 1st pitch starts up this. Rap route.
(see![]()
The Hidden Heavenly Slab topo. )
This is also the raps down for 6 ways From Sunday
(see
This is also the raps down for 6 ways From Sunday
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