Black Sabbath
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British R
| Type: | Trad, 110 ft (33 m) |
| GPS: | 40.5792, -111.70289 |
| FA: | Luke Douglas,Tyler Phillips -10/26/07 |
| Page Views: | 928 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Luke Douglas on Nov 9, 2008 |
| Admins: | Drew B, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
To get things started, fun moves right off the ground take you through cool features on good rock. Take advantage of the great cam placements you will pass. Climb toward the prominent bush growing on the lip of the main slab and slot a great nut here before continuing on. Mount the slab and follow the dark black streaks to another great nut placement. Moving straight up leads to a good TCU placement. Travel through the great holds and features above eventually joining The Lonely Sinner at the mini-roof. See the topo on the Hidden Heavenly page.




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